TES Exhaust

[John Wakefield]

Thanks.

Cutting and welding is somewhat beyond my level of mechanical ability , but I've an aspiration to preserve the originality of the machine where reasonable.

Not sure if the silencer is original anyway - I've attached a pic.

Not original, the one on the TFS trail bike is the correct one & as Brian C says was made by PECO.

[ian640]

Is the PECO one on the TFS trail the same as the original for the TFS trials?

I've seen TFS trials with a longer, one piece exhaust on the RHS.

Any thoughts on the make of silencer on mine?

Thanks

[IanCordes]

The one on your TFS looks like a Servais silencer off a TES, although the heat shield is a bit blinged up. It may be a touch longer though....

[floydbassman]

this is my TFS exhaust system

[ian640]

Thanks for the replies and sorry to hijack Peter's thread.

In summary the silencer on my TFS is not original but may be a Servais as fitted to the TES.

The Peco silencer on Tony's TFS Trail is a Peco and original fit.

The silencer on Floyd's TFS looks like the one I've seen on other TFS machines.

The silencer's shown on TFS's in Colin's excellent book look like something else again.

I may just go with John's suggested approach of getting mine re-packed to start with.

Thanks.

[nzpeterb]

Dismantling original TES Muffler

Back from riding the bike in a three day event and lucky to finish the three days with only needing to adjust the front brake and clutch cables.
As the rebuilt engine freed up it developed more power and I am happy with its performance but have a list of jobs to do to it now it has been used.

One is repacking the original silencer. It is the one with the square inlet pipe and oval muffler with one flanged end.
Has anyone had one apart?
If I file/grind off the weld on the flanged end of the muffler can I pull the end out or is it also welded to the pipe that runs through the centre of the muffler?
Would appreciate any hints before picking up the tools.
Regards,
Peter Barnett

[John Wakefield]

Might be best to cut open the side of silencer box that way you wont have to disturb the perforated pipe within the silencer which will be welded in place. Its then just a matter of the clearing any previous burnt out packing, and re pack with new fibreglass wool (loft insulation material available from your local DIY store). Then weld back the side. Best to do it on the inside then the re weld wont show.

[nzpeterb]

Silencer cut open for Scottish with Square Exhaust

Hi all, I know the thread is a couple of months old but I though I should post some information now I have opened up the silencer (muffler) as this may help someone else in the future.

In my case I looked inside the silencer with a torch and screwdriver and confirmed the perforated inner tube was loose, so I filed the end flange to remove the existing weld and pulled the end cap off.

If you refer to the photo you can see a collar on the end cap that projects into the silencer. There is another collar welded inside the square pipe at the other end. The fine perforated tube is a loose fit over the collars.

The coarse expanded metal was then wrapped around the inner tube and, as can be seen, the remains of some packing was then wrapped around the outside.

Looks like a straight forward job to repack but because the silencer is oval and the inner tube is round there is not much room on each side for packing.

Hopefully when back together it will be quieter.

regards,

Peter Barnett

[John Pattinson]

Tes Silencer

I had my TES silencer apart and took it to DEP products, Derek Elwel, he looked at the big bore perforated tube and laughed. It seems things have moved on since 1963, he made up a 25mm yes 1" perforated tube and stepped the ends to fit. When you do this there is plenty of room for the packing material and its quieter smoother and goes better.To even further improve I fitted a small stinger to a modded stepped down tail pipe and its good quiet and goes much better than standard....John P

[nzpeterb]

TES Silencer

John,

Thanks for the reply.
I just finished putting mine back together yesterday and have retained the original perforated tube. I have however riveted rather than welded the end cap so there will be some options open up to experiment.
I have also experimented with a plug inside the original tail pipe. A 20 mm hole in the tail pipe plug did reduce noise but also some power. So I am opening this up to 25 mm, which is the same size you used. By using a plug the pipe still looks original but again there is some room to experiment by changing the diameter of the hole in the plug.
Thanks again for the reply,

Regards,

Peter Barnett

[Geoff]

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, however it gave me inspiration to take my exhaust apart. What I found certainly explained why it was so noisy - there were no remains of any packing whatsoever. Looking to find a local source for the bits to go with the 1" perforated tube.

[Brian Thompson]

Hi Geoff,

A belated warm welcome to the forum from me, and hope you have already found lots of useful information to assist with your rebuild.

Thanks for your recent postings too, and please keep them coming!

Firstly, never ever worry about 'reviving' an old thread. I think I can safely say that any thread on here is fair game if it adds further useful information to the knowledge base. It also often highlights them to other members who may not have seen them before. So, revive away and no worries!! I think on this forum it's a principle that works well, as we've seen many many times before.

I saw your post and pics (as above) on the fb 'enthusiasts' site covering this query. I see Mick Metcalfe advised on using a 1 3/4" pipe as a 1" would be too restrictive. What I would say is that Mick is well worth listening to, as his technical knowledge and experience are well known in GRA circles. At least if you find that's the case with the 1" pipe, you'll know what the issue is.

Finally, regarding a local source of packing materials, where are you based?

Good luck with your Greeves, and good to have you on here.

Brian.