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  • #16
    Yes, I am quite a fan of the Villiers carb too.

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    • #17
      Only thing is the Villiers carb was only available as 25mm Amal gives a wider choice of bore sizes so presume Don Smith fitted the larger Amal for more power. Bultaco fitted a Spanish built Amal Concentric to the Sherpa. I think the 2T 3T and 4T twins would benefit from a larger carb. There is an interesting thread about this and alloy 2T/3T barrels on the FB forum http://fboc.forumotion.biz/t5350-vil...-barrels#25110

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      • #18
        The Monobloc tends to flood if you lay the bike down (aka fall off ! ). This makes it difficult to restart. The Concentric doesn't usually do this - but then, neither does the Villiers carb.
        Last edited by Colin Sparrow; 20/12/2018, 03:16 PM.
        Colin Sparrow

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        • #19
          Problem with the concentric is you can't put the slide back in if the carb is at an angle as the needle flops sideways & does not go into the jet- makes a mockery of the ability on my ISDT bike to tilt the carb to make cable replacement easy!

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          • #20
            Peter, the cable will usually break at the twistgrip, so seasoned campaigners used to make a 2 part cable with a "Mousetrap" slide device to enable the short bit to be changed quickly. You can then support the long part to give it the best run.

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            • #21
              I have seen a Sackville QA throtle used on a works bike which was slit so that the nipple end could be exposed without taking the throttle apart. The removable part was kept in place with a Viney bone. I think I've got a photo somewhere, I'll post it if I find it.

              Druid

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              • #22
                Druid,I think Ken Heanes demonstrated that to a masterclass once. Does not solve the floppy needle syndrome!

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                • #23
                  Brian,
                  My comments on the throttle were in response to your comments about the "mousetrap" There are no easy answers to the floppy needle problem. If I'm having a lot of trouble and it just won't go in I either disconnect the air filter boot and guide the needle in with thin nose pliers, or alternatively guide it from the top, again not easy. The worst scenario is trying to change the cable on a very hot QUB.

                  Druid

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