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  • #76
    Rear wheel

    Hi Dave, the rear wheel was just put in place to enable the bike to be moved around, there are no spacers. I am sure that with the right spacers in place the wheel will line up correctly.

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    • #77
      Hi tony, i knew you had it covered, when do you think it will be on the road? definately one for a spread in the l/link i think. dave.

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      • #78
        Ready in the Summer

        I am hoping in the summer. June 9th I am going to Stafford to OS stainless to get the exhaust fitted.
        Roy has a one off burgess style stainless steel silencer which I hope will look in keeping.
        He made it to see how long they would take and decided it was not cost effective, hence there is only one. I had better not bend it

        It has not been polished or brackets fitted, but gives a good idea of what it will look like - 2 in to 1 pipes on the inside of the alloy beam.

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        • #79
          ISDT main stand

          Are there any drawings or better pictures of the stand used for off road bikes? I know Adrian makes ones for road bikes, but not this style.

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          • #80
            Silverstone front wheel

            The front wheel has returned from SRM, stainless rim and Silverstone hub.




            I have just taken everything apart ready for the paint job on Tuesday -
            a shade of Moorland blue

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            • #81
              A shade of Moorland blue

              I now have every part back and I am ready to start putting it together, hopefully everything will fit back as it was.
              The frame was sprayed with 2 pack in the nearest match my local supplier could find to an original part.
              Not a concourse job but from a distance it will look good. The rear rack and number plate have been powder coated in satin black.

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              • #82
                Some more progress

                Front wheel and forks are on and I am just putting the wiring harness and tin ware on.
                Slight hold up on the rear wheel as I am waiting for the 44 tooth cog for the speedometer drive - ready next week.



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                • #83
                  Torque arm

                  The torque arm has been fitted to hold the brake plate, nylon bush used at the front and rear to allow movement.

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                  • #84
                    Wire connectors

                    I have just started wiring the grumph and I am ditching the rubber butt connectors in favour
                    of solder shrink connectors and Posilock for areas where the wires need to be disconnected.





                    The solder shrink connectors take up much less space and are sealed against moisture penetration
                    and do not vibrate loose - which happened on my Triumph T100C last week

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Connections

                      Good to hear of more progress. Not familiar with the posilock connectors, but will Google. Definitely better than the dreaded Lucas "Bullet" connector. Joe Lucas - The Prince of Darkness as he is often referred to. Especially when you are stuck at the roadside, or a competition event with duff electrics.....................

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                      • #86
                        posilock

                        A sample connector arrived today, thanks Tony...., looks a good bit of kit, especially where you may need to dis-assemble

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                        • #87
                          Led's on the Grumph

                          I have just completed wiring the lights/indicators and horn on the Grumph. I started with Negative earth as I wanted
                          to use Led's and there is a greater range in - earth and other bits like my Garmin are - negative earth. All seems to
                          work, after running a few extra earths from the indicators. I had to replace the replica miller rear lamp which was rubbish and sporadically
                          made contact with the bulb. I have mounted two Stebbel Magnum horns which are the same as I had on my KTM and are particularly
                          useful in foreign lands where loud horns are essential. I mounted two Leds for daylight running and changed the small headlamp bulb
                          for an LED as well. The Led's were £10.00 for the pair which seems really good value for something which gives a much more visible
                          daylight light to be seen by and uses very little watts.




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                          • #88
                            Tony
                            Where did you get the LED daylight running lamps & the LED pilot bulb from? Are they 6volt or 12volt?
                            Just one point I dont think having a pair of running lights is a good idear they could be mistaken for a car at a greater distance in foggy conditions.
                            I know a lot of modern bikes have two headlights but these are closer together.
                            Just a thought
                            John
                            Last edited by John Wakefield; 17/11/2012, 05:24 PM. Reason: text added

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                            • #89
                              LED's

                              John the daylight Led’s are from




                              and the 12 volt bulb from Paul Goff http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/

                              Most adventure bikes and tourers have spotlights fitted either side of the bike, whether they need them or not is debatable. It could be that it makes it look like a car, but as long as they can see me coming I don't mind .

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                              • #90
                                Originally posted by tony View Post
                                It could be that it makes it look like a car, but as long as they can see me coming I don't mind .
                                Yep but if they think you are a car some way off & then turn in front of you it could result a nasty accident. If they are that powerful why not just mount one to the off side.

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