First Ride

[whitehillbillies]

I am still not sure of John's comment,

The S25 is 25mm (1 inch)
and this,
S.25/6 Choke bored to 1", ????
What is bored to 1"

whitehillbillies

[John Wakefield]

I am still not sure of John's comment,

The S25 is 25mm (1 inch)
and this,
S.25/6 Choke bored to 1", ????
What is bored to 1"

whitehillbillies

25mm = 1 inch or 0.9842 inch to be precise simple

[whitehillbillies]

fair enough John,
I'm old enough to still use feet and inches in My everyday life.
Not having ago, but
what is the difference between the two,
S25 STD 1"
and S25/6 Choke BORED to 1" ????
Refered to in this GRA Link

Singles (9E, 32A) mostly used the S.25 unit. On the fuel tickler side of the carb body will be a small raised lug with the definition/type of that particular carb stamped on it, depending on final usage/application.

S.25 or blank (no stamping) Standard carb body; Spare/replacement.

S.25/1 Standard carb body, no strangler, but seperate cable operated strangler fitted for Bond cars and 9E; 9E and 32A.

S.25/2 Standard carb body with strangler and rod operation; 32A and 37A.

S.25/3 Standard carb body with strangler and cable operation; 3T and road bikes.

S.25/4 Unknown details.

S.25/5 Choke bored to 1", no strangler; 2H and 32A.

S.25/6 Choke bored to 1", with strangler, rod operation; 32A and Starmaker.

S.25/7 Standard carb body with throttle stop; Bond and road bikes.

S.25/8 Standard carb body with strangler, cable operation and throttle stop; Bond and road bikes.

For interest, my 1956 James Captain Trial with a 6E motor, I built from scratch, had a S25 carby. pilot 35, 50mm needle and 120 main jet.

Looking from the motor side of my S25/1, I see a square recess at the bottom ( choke ? ) with a small hole.
With the other S25/3 the one I may have stuffed up, as this was opened up to 1" ( I thought )the bottom recess has been removed, when bored, but still has the small hole, at the bottom.
The max ID of the ( choke ? ) can be no greater than the ID of the Intake manifold, attached to the barrel ????
Have been involved with Villiers engine Trials Bikes, for the somewhat short time, of only 30 years, compared with many others, on this and other Forums. I like to discuss and learn all I can.
After all we are a dying breed.
If me calling you overseas to discuss this issue, PM me you phone no,
and I will gladly do so.
Still

whitehillbillies

[whitehillbillies]

OK update on my Greeves,
Thanks to John, Andy, Rob and Brian for the input.
Regarding Membership, should I join now or wait till June the 1st, as this appears to be the start of your year ????
Replaced Kill Switch, with a new one, soldering and heat shrinking the soldered joints.
I added the Bultaco coil, which was tested by the local mower shop, with constant arc at 6.5 mm before it started to break down. He said 6mm indicated a good, old coil.
I had this fitted under the Tank to a bracket I had added, as a back up when I has it road registered. Hi-Output coils Victoria, had rewound the original coil, so the Greeves runs a stock standard type system, with the original type HT lead soldered directly to the 'Button' on the coil, coming out of its original Bakelite threaded fitting. ( secondary coil ? )
A wire from the ( Primary coil ? ) goes to the points.
I checked the points and had 16 thou gap.
I pull off the head and checked the Timing, with my metric dial gauge,
and my old analogue Multi meter ( needle and dial type ) Needle flickers as point start to open.
I discovered that the Timing was set to 3.80mm BTDC
Using Andy's and John suggestion of 4.50mm I reset the Timing, it only had to move a small amount, but It was 4.30mm
I have re tapped the point timing screw hole to M6 allen head bolt, so tightening can change the Timing a bit, but it all worked out spot on 4.50 when tightened fully.
When I rechecked the points the were at 15thou, so fluked things a bit .
Not like the reset timing then points the timing Fun.
Quick run down the road and this seemed improved.
I will try the 135 main, as it still seems to 4st a little on full throttle. Will have to give it a run over the steep hills at work, (400 acre property)
and I kept my air screw at 1 1/4
Needle is at 47.25 and will see how that goes.
The Australian winter draws in, so this might help a bit with the settings.
Yes I do get 40 plus in Summer, but Northern NSW Winters can get below 0, with heavy frosting.
Once again, thanks for your help.

whitehillbillies

[AndyB]

Membership

<Regarding Membership, should I join now or wait till June the 1st, as this appears to be the start of your year ????>

Hello Whitehillbillies, this is the original AndyB here, (Membership Secretary), not to be confused with AndyB from Hove, Actually!

If you join now, at the annual rate, we'll give you (and anyone else who might have been waiting) membership until end of May 2016, which is 14 1/2 months for the price of 12!

So - don't delay - act today!



Thanks

AndyB

[whitehillbillies]

Thanks, the real AndyB,
Can it all be all done online, using PayPal ?.
Or do I still have to send you the application details, via snail mai.
Have to dig out my old Leading Link mags, to see how long ago I was last a member of GRA.
Thanks.
Whitehillbillies

[hoveactually]

This is the 'hove actually' AndyB here. I shall have to stop using this sign off and revert to a straightforward Andy to avoid confusing everyone.

Anyway - back to business.

Just a thought whitehillbillies - have you checked the float height and hence petrol level in float chamber. If this is out of spec its another good reason for poor engine performance no matter what you do to the other settings. If the float doesn't leak a float height of 1/4" (~6mm) should result in the right petrol level.

Andy (I do miss not adding the B)

[whitehillbillies]

Thanks Andy (B),
you could add the B and be Bandy
Works for NameTab engineering.
Foat height is the same as when it was road registered, and it would have been set at the books recommendation.
Will check in the next few days.
Thanks again.

whitehillbillies

[AndyB]

Thanks, the real AndyB,
Can it all be all done online, using PayPal ?.
Or do I still have to send you the application details, via snail mai.
Have to dig out my old Leading Link mags, to see how long ago I was last a member of GRA.
Thanks.
Whitehillbillies

If you have a scanner, this will work: you could print the form, fill it in, and scan it. Then send it to the same email address as the PayPal payment.

One day we might get an online application form up and running...

Thanks

AndyB

[whitehillbillies]

Hi AndyB,
My Father in Cornwall, has decided to pay for my membership, as a April birthday present.
I have filled in and forwarded the membership form.
He, Will post it on Monday, along with a Cheque.
Let me know when you have received the payment.
I will then forward Rob, to update me, to Full GRA member.
I can then post old Greeves Article I have collected over the years.
Thanks.

whitehillbillies

[AndyB]

Cheers whitehillbillies! - but I guess that isn't your real name?

How will I recognise that its you?...

Will be good to have you as a member and to see your pics.

AndyB

PS Happy Birthday in advance!

[whitehillbillies]

Hi AndyB,
Lets just say I live in the Back hills of Australia,
and my surname Is A light colour..
Look forward to being a full member again..
As its been a few years.
Andrew King still around ????
Shane.

Whitehillbilliers

[Brian Catt]

Great, welcome in!

[whitehillbillies]

AndyB,
Application posted yesterday. ( Saturday )

whitehillbillies

[AndyB]

AndyB,
Application posted yesterday. ( Saturday )

whitehillbillies

Excellent! Thank you!

AndyB