Anglian Rear Shocks

[Keith Beach]

Oopos I did forget that !

Excellent that all makes sense Don. Thank you.

[Dick F]

Anglian shocks

Just a quick call again on the suspension issue, I have used the same set up for several years Don, and this is my first chain off in maybee 10 years! this I know was due to the grit and rooted one section, Mr Sam Miller also along with several other riders had the same fate, so I can honestly say that it was not the shocks.

Our gearing is low for the tight stuff of today as you say, but for the Downland Trial it was in the main off road so pulling top was not an issue, on road work we just keep the speed down to compensate for this problem.

[Rob]

Right you two!

MR SPARROW, PLEASE!! Knackered engine!!

Overhauled crank
New main bearings
New viton seals
Cylinder re-sleeved by Fahron
New Dykes Hepolite piston
New Electrex ignition
New spark plug (all time first!)
New Amal carb
New air cleaner
New valve cap on front wheel!

MR MORLEY!! Excess body weight!

Following my 225 mile walk from North Wales to South during which I walked bits of the '61 ISDT route near Bala and also near Llandovery, I am now back to 10 1/2 stone!!

However, I'll let you off if you are talking about Dick the Pie Muncher!!

[Don Morley]

Anglian Rear Shocks

Blimey I didn't know you were that heavy!

[Rob]

I was only 8 stone before the walk but Dick told me all the best places to get good pies and he should know! Last time I use him as my fitness coach!

Slightly off thread but getting back to Keith's gearing, 14 x 64, that is very low for general road use. That gives a 1st gear of 35.38 and top of 9.82:1 (assuming standard 20T engine sprocket). That would be fine for pocket handkerchief trials.

I am running 14 x 60 = 30.96 and 8.6 top which seems ideal for 'road' trials.

By comparison, the ISDT bike KOO 928 ran 27.91 and 7.75 top. To achieve this with trials gears and 15T gearbox, a 54T rear sprocket is needed. This is what I am going to start with for my ISDT replica.

[whitehillbillies]

Im 16 stone, is that why my TCS shocks sag a bit ???? Love Pies, and my homebrew

whitehillbillies

[Keith Beach]

Yep Rob I agree. My gearing is too low for how I use the bike most of the time. Pocket handkerchief speed sees me wobble a lot and put my feet down. 1st is good for lifting the forks and then Im into 2nd. To date with the Anglian my riding it has mostly been trails not trials and if I could find a friendly local farmer it would probably predominantly continue that way. The job description is for some hills and trails, wall to wall sunshine, dust and a hut with a comfy chair at the end with a mug of tea to compare notes. I might advertise for such a farm location but suspect that may be in short order in Sussex. Those west coast and Spanish boys have it good !

My thinking had been to go down to a 54 rear sprocket or perhaps a bit less.

[Keith Beach]

GRA Sussex Clubhouse

[Don Morley]

Anglian Rear Shocks

Keith please do be careful! Going down to a 54T rear sprocket without going up to at least a 15T Gearbox sprocket as well will virtually guarantee your chain rubbing on the top of the swinging arm and cross over rear brake lever, more so if you also run your bike with longer dampers! WHAT IS WRONG WITH GREEVES OWN CHOICE OF 15/58 OR EVEN 16/58 FOR YOUR USAGE

[Keith Beach]

Thanks Don. Yes I should have made clear that I would go up to 15 or 16 teeth front if I went down to a 54 rear, as you say.

[MikeTizard]

Anglian shocks and gearing

What a great read, logical discussion, the occasional rant, very compelling.

Anyhow. I've been using njb shocks for a number of year without problem. I really forget the lengths I asked for and as the bike is in the barracks (24 hour armed guard!) I'm not going to measure them just now. Norman supplied them and they work well, and I'm not a good enough rider to know tell the difference as far a handling is concerned. They feel right. When I fitted them I noticed the close proximity of the chain to the swinging arm and the rear brake arm. To prevent fouling I fitted a rubber guide over the swinging arm; I modified one which previously was fitted to an Armstrong MT 500! It has worked well for many years. The chain does not foul the brake arm. I also run a chain tensioner as without one the chain runs close to the lower frame loop. The tensioner allows the chain plenty of slack, and goes some way to overcome the rear wheel lock up when encountering gravel laden mud.

As far as gearing is concerned, I used 14/58 for number of years, but as I'm using a standard gearbox, this meant 1st gear for all sections regardless. On occasion I could use 2nd for long hills, but it was on the limit of power. On the SM rounds I would cruise comfortably on the road at around 35 to 40. Lots of pinging at 40 though.

For the SSDT this year I lowered the gearing to 13/58 which made a read difference and gave me some choice. When riding in modern per-65 sections (there's an oxymoron for you) most of the bikes are heavily modified and as such the sections are adjusted to suit. Most are hard, or at least I find them hard, and running lower gearing at least means that you can get to the ends cards!

For what it's worth, trail work 14/58, trials work 13/58 works well.

Keith, nice article in the LL. Dick and Rob, sorry I missed you on the PS and D trials, next year hopefully.

Mike.

[whitehillbillies]

Im going with 12/55 on my 24TCS, let you know how it goes!

whitehillbillies

[Keith Beach]

Id be interested to know how that goes whitehillbillies

[Keith Beach]

Hi Mike thanks for your comments. Anglian in barracks under armed guard - that won't get nicked then ! Beats my alarmed garage with remote monitoring.

Ive got rubber over the swinging arm too and around the lower frame loop to protect them as the chain runs very very close on my current set up of 14/64. Following Don's posts I now understand why. With what you and Don are saying I think I should try 14/58 or 15/58. I'm also clear that I should fit a chain tensioner. I had a quick look last night before settling down to watch Homeland and am not sure where I would fit it - I would either have to have a "lug" welded on or drill through the bracket welded on my lower frame which has my footrest attached to it. Is there a best position ?

On 14/64 its comfortable cruising at 25 albeit with pinging and lots more pinging at 30. But the bike sounds very comfortable opened up and accelerating on the main jet up to 40 or so except of course that the revs are quite high.

Incidentally Mike I noticed your post re submission of frame no for the register a while back - my Anglian came close after at THSA135.

[MikeTizard]

Hi Keith, it appears our bike were in the factory at the same time.

I've got chain tensioners on both of my greeves. The best results are on the Anglian where is mounted in the direction of the chain travel; pad towards the rear wheel. I had to weld a lug on the swinging arm though - purists will be very upset! The challenger is mounted against the direction on the lower chain guard mount, it works well enough, but occasionally the chain catches the edge of the pad. This forces the pad down, before it disengages with the chain and the spring slams the pad back up with a bang. It was quite a worry the first time it happened. Fitting of a wheel would stop it happening, but time and work pressures etc etc.

I've entered the trial on the 30th December on the Anglian (Aldershot) and I will be riding the challenger in the Exeter trial on the 4/5 January so if you are about you can take a look. I've also volunteered the challenger for the stand at the Bristol show at shepton mallet, so perhaps then.