East Coaster Front brake

[Motorcyclist Colin]

I. am a fairly new owner of an excellent East Coaster. Recently while riding in some very heavy rain, i cautiously applied the front brake. The brake grabbed and there was a loud "crack" and the lever went slack. A later investigation showed that the adjustment had slacked right off (or perhaps more accurately had "Been pulled off"). I am very familiar with brakes "grabbing" in the wet as I have a four leading shoe Fontana front brake on my Egli Vincent. This has a cooling air intake, and the secret in the wet is to very gently run with the brake just on, for a little while, when it very quickly dries out. and gives no more problems if it remains warm/hot. Is this "grab" and "crack" a common occurance with the EC from brake?.
I undestand at least one EC owner has changed the standard front brake for something else
Comments and advice please, has anyone else had a similar situation.

[John Wakefield]

Not sure what you mean by 'a loud crack and the lever going slack'. Sounds as though something has broken, but what. You say the adjustment had slackened right off, but as this is a threaded adjuster I cant see how that could happen, it needs further investigating. The 6 inch BHC alloy brake is normally good and well sufficient for the bike, and does not normally grab unless the bike has been laid up for a long time and the brake drum rusted.

[John Pattinson]

Mine grabbed many times and destroyed the brake plate. And it has broken the screwed adjuster just as Colin has described. I have tried different linings and another brake plate. Also tried locking up the floating brake with a reduced spacer and making a new brake anchor bar to be secured in the older way with tin hubs. All failed, as I cover quite a few miles I obtained a tin hub and rebuilt it with a new rim & spokes, so far no problems.

[John Wakefield]

Not had any issues with my BHC front brake and have done 1000's of miles on the bike, it does grab a bit on first application after standing but this wears off after a couple of applications. These hubs were also fitted to the AJS and Machless lightweights as well as Dots & Cottons and of course numerous Greeves scramblers. Although I have heard of problems with the rear brake plate fracturing I have not beard of a similar thing with the front. Possibly caused by worn brake linings which have allowed the brake cam to go over its centre. The BHC hub is a far better brake than the 'tin' type so the particular issue with yours needs to be found and sorted. Villiers services do a reline for the shoes and will supply the correct lining material and thickness for the drum.

[John Pattinson]

Not worn linings, they were new and turned down in a lathe to be a perfect fit for drum.

[anglian man]

Hi John
A strange one that,tin hub is worst hub,followed by FW alloy,then Challenger/Griffon conical in that order mainly to do with brake plate rigidity. I do as you do oversize linings, machined to suit,never had a problem.Always use a soft trials lining by Ian at Classic brakes because he still rivets linings on,best grip in the wet, a little faster wear because higher Coff.of friction,but better to have a good brake.Both my road bikes run 7”TLS and no problems with them.

[Motorcyclist Colin]

I think I may have solved the problem (or at least the cause) of my front brake "Crack". In fact it was not a "crack" but more of a "Clonk". and I think due to some play in the torque arm from the fork to the brake plate. There is play at both ends of the arm, and whilst on the stand if the brake plate is turned back a bit (as would happen if applying the brake whilst going backwards, and as happens on my very steep drive from time to time) then the wheel spun forward and the brake suddenly applied there is the clonk, but the brake does workwell enough. though as and when it is relined I think I shall go for a "soft" (?AM3) lining.
The nut on the, brake plate end of the arm was also a bit on the slack side. I realise it must be free to pivot a little with suspension movement but there was (in my inexpert view) alittle too much
As always I welcome expert opinion, Thanks

[John Wakefield]

Both nuts on torque arm should be full tightened, the clearance is determined by the spacer that the nylon bushes run on.