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  • Electrics-rewiring

    Having written at length on the forum regarding "Top ten tips for hand painting with Tekaloid" I'm about to launch into rewiring. First time and another learning curve. Anybody got any tips?
    I'm really interested in learning and ending up with a professional looking job. I will do my own homework and I know to avoid crimps but not what to use. What thickness wire do you use on a 20DC is a starter for ten, is there a difference in thinkness between charging, headlight and brake light wire thickness or does one size fit all?
    .....but any rewiring hints and tips much appreciated.

  • #2
    Black Art rewiring is. Learn one has.
    Leading Link article forthcoming to help beginners.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by blackshiver View Post
      Black Art rewiring is. Learn one has.
      Leading Link article forthcoming to help beginners.
      Can't wait. May the Force be with you!

      LL Ed.
      Colin Sparrow

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      • #4
        Wiring

        You may care to look at this web page, gives cable sizes for different current ratings. The higher the current the thicker the cable required

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        • #5
          Hi guys.
          I'm re-wiring my 25 DC as we speak. We have sparks but need a battery and headlamp before I'll kick the old girl into life.

          I have used
          AES are the leading suppliers of auto electrical components and accessories for modern and classic vehicles. Marine and boat electrical parts also supplied. If you are wiring or rewiring a vehicle, shop online or download a free AES catalogue and buy via mail order. We also have a French Website...

          for all of my electrical needs. Delivery and prices are good and they have an excellent range of colours and automotive spec tape for covering.

          I have used 2mm square cross section for the heavy stuff like coils, battery feeds and headlamps and then 1mm for everything else.
          This is total overkill but I don't ever intend to revisit after finishing.

          On tip I would always pass on is when screwing bare cable into things like the dip / horn switch and the lighting switch always 'tin' the end of the cable first by heating with a soldering iron and allowing the solder to be absorbed into the cable (Practise on some scrap first).

          This gives a better contact, does fray and is a bloody sight easier to assemble.

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          • #6
            Good grief

            20DC now fully rewired, battery on, sparks and everything works!

            Dead chuffed at first attempt at rewiring. Now have a big pile of used assorted naff blue / red crimps, scotchblok connectors, chocolate block joints, freyed black copper wire and sticky degraded electrical tape. A nicely wired Greeves with minimal, soldered wiring, which is properly routed and sheathed is a delight. Was well worth taking time over and not bodging.

            P.S These little singles are really pretty when properly refurbished. The hand painting with Tecaloid coach paint is FAR smoother and has a much deeper "wet look" gloss compared to the cellulose sprayed MDS which is sat right next to it. Some really good advice from various people on here in that regard. Thanks to all.

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