25DC Trouble Shooting.

[John Wakefield]

2T gear lever

The 4T used a shorter gear lever

[Stan Nicholson]

I remember cutting a section out of the gear lever and rewelding it to bring it closer to the footrest on my new 25DB that I bought in 1960.
Stan

[bryan]

25dc trouble shooting

can anyone tell me why my odometer has stopped working and how can I fix it ?,the mph is fine.

[John Wakefield]

Speedo problem

Obviously something has broken or worn out (usually one of the gear wheels)
You cant repair it yourself so will have to either buy another one (eBay ?)
or send it to one of the people who repair speedos Gaggs http://www.gagg-and-sons.freeserve.co.uk/main.html ; or Pople http://www.speedorepairs.co.uk/
It wont be cheap though expect a bill of around £80.

[bryan]

25dc trouble shooting

Can someone help with a engine hesitation problem.The first thing I had was a engine stutter followed by a bang from the exhaust,it cleared then happened again and again.Plug trouble I thought so I bought new ones,the problem seemed to go away but now I have this very bad hesitation and it persists even after I put the old plugs back in.I'v cleaned the carb. out,fuel lines,jets,filters,air cleaner,even the tank cap.I'v checked the contact breakers,ht leads,in fact everything I can think of,so has any member had a similar problem ? Really need your input and advice.

[John Wakefield]

25dc trouble shooting

Have you changed the capacitors (condensers) These can break down when they get hot. Also check the multi pin plug & socket on engine casing that I mentioned on another thread.

[bryan]

25dc trouble shooting

Hello John,No haven't checked either,how can I check the condensers ? Let me just give you a quick snapshot-Cold engine,a little choke,first kick start,warm up for a couple of mins.,engine reving perfectly on a throttle blip,ride off up road and engine hesitates,change gear same happens,really frustrated turn around come home,all of 50 yards and engine is as sweet as a nut at tickover.will now go and check multi pin plug.

[John Wakefield]

Condensers

You cant check them at least not without expensive test equipment. Just buy new ones they cost little. Villiers Services should have them

[bryan]

25dc trouble shooting

John,ordered a couple of condensers from Villiers last Thursday at 10am,they arrived Friday morning,some service eh,and changed the one with the long lead and bingo no more trouble.Thanks very much for your help.

[bryan]

25dc trouble shooting

More help needed,now this hasn't happened since my post no.25 on the 25th oct 2011.Went for a run last sun.,after about 18 miles I had the OLD trouble again,ie there was a screeching sound from somewhere in the engine,gearbox,chaincase area and the rear wheel locked.Hastily pulling in the clutch unlocked whatever it was and I coasted to a stop.Not more than 30 seconds later the engine started first kick and I continued on my way home for another 25 miles with no further trouble.Since then I'v checked all oils,chains and found nothing amiss and been on several runs of about 12 miles with no further problems.I do ,however, feel a little nervous about going further afield so if anyone has had a similar problem please let me know.

[Brian Thompson]

Screeching noise from engine.

Hi Bryan,

Sorry to hear that your still having a few problems with your bike.

A mate of mine had a similar problem a few years back (Suzuki RM crosser) and in that instance it turned out to be a shot bearing, even though there was no debris in the oil (checked with a magnet.) It certainly sounds similar, what do other members think? It took an engine strip as the duff bearing was in the gearbox.

The only other thing I can suggest is to ask if you've checked your gearbox owl recently...?! (Really sorry Bryan, just couldn't resist that one!)

Best of luck and hope you get to the bottom of it. Let us know how you get on.

Brian (but with an i!)

[mayfield]

25DC Trouble shooting

Probably nipping up on one cylinder, check if engine will kick over immediately should it happen again.A theory is that the front beam restricts the air flow,other than a ring could have broken in the process,unlikely from my experience.should settle down after a few miles.I hope this helps. Best wishes.

[cray]

As mayfield says, it could just be a slight nip (sieze) maybe if you remove the cylinder heads and look at the bores for any tell tale signs like small aluminium deposits on the bores of score marks. If any signs you might want to remove the offending barrel and look at the piston and check for high spots on the piston, remember to stuff the crankcase with clean rags in case piston rings have broken!!

Best wishes
Colin

[bryan]

25dc trouble shooting

Thanks guys for the options,if problems persists will try them out.While I'm here has anyone had a problem with the oil mixing with the petrol at a garage cos the other day I refuelled,bought some oil and added it to the fuel,gave it a good shake and set off.A mile down the road the engine stopped,now I'm not a stranger to this happening so I took off the carb. and lo and behold the float chamber was full of oil,tipped it out re-assembled and everything was fine.Now I'v had this happen to me before and it doesn't seem to matter if the oil is added 1st or 2nd,so in future I'm going to pre mix it and let it stand over night.Anyway the next day I decided to strip the carb. again and have a good look,all seemed fine but I did find one thing which was a little strange.The needle,which is supposed to be in the middle position and secured with a circlip wasn't.In place of the circlip there was a screw !Anyone else have that and how the devil can the needle be adjusted ?
By the way no offence taken and it is with Y.

[Brian Thompson]

Carb, etc.

Hi Bryan, and thanks for being a good sport with my little quip.

Not sure about the oil in the carb prob you mention, but I can tell you that on some Villiers carbs the needle height is adjusted with a screw as you describe, and others with the the groove and circlip method. With the screw type adjustment, the setting is given as a measurement usually from the base of the slide, called 'set-out'.

Incidently, the needle adjustment grub screw on these carbs has a reputation for working loose and dropping down into the engine, so most people secure them with a blob of silicone or something once adjustment has been made. This happened to the previous owner of my TCS, and another member wrote of the same experience in an older back issue of 'Leading Link' as well.

To identify which Villiers carb you have, it should be stamped on the side of the main body (i.e S25/3 or whatever.) This should confirm the adjustment type as well. There's more handy info on Villiers carb applications etc in the 'Non-Greeves Engines' area of the forum-well worth checking out if you haven't seen those threads before.

Hope this helps,

Brian.