Rear hub construction!

[Rusty546]

Hi, reasonably new to the forum so sorry if this as been asked before. Hopefully there are a couple of photos of the parts of my rear hub, (1963 te).
The flange on the drive side which carries the sprocket seems only to be "pressed" on, is this correct!? There is no signs of welding or sweating on!
Is this standard for the model?
Advice, comments please.

[IanCordes]

Hi Rusty. Sorry for the late reply. I had a paddle hub; which is basically your hub with the cast alloy finned muff shrunk onto it; come apart in the same way as yours. They hold together well enough once built up, though; fortunately!!

[Brian Thompson]

Hi Rusty,

You may already have seen this thread, but if not you may find it helpful. Greeves Hub Drawings. - Greeves Riders Association Forums (greeves-riders.org.uk)

Brian.

[Rusty546]

Hi guys, thanks very much for your replies, they clear up a few doubts in my mind about strength issues I had. The drawings are great thanks. I have also been talking to a young engineer who is very interested in electric bikes (cycles) and he explained some of the stresses that go through them and it would seem that the torque is not transmitted through the hub longitudinaly but transferred to the other side through the rim! If the spokes are correctly set then the spokes take the strain radialy...I speak of the torque generated by the engine through the sprocket.

Thanks again

[IanCordes]

.....and Villiers engines don't have much torque!

[Rusty546]

Ha ha, very true but if you have a hub like mine which has seen some abuse (see photo) then it can cause some damage! I am thinking, while I have the hub out of the wheel to make up a ring to bolster the "sprocket flange" side where the bolts for the sprocket pass through?

[IanCordes]

You are on your own with that one, but it does have twice as many bolt holes as it needs!

[Rusty546]

Here is what I am thinking would help build the strength back into the hub, not sure if the steel ring would need to be "tacked" with "tig" in a few places or just "trapped and clamped" when the sprocket is bolted up. What do you think? I have the use of CNC machines so am lucky in that respect!

[IanCordes]

It will affect the chain alignment. It shouldn't be necessary.

[Rusty546]

I can't see how it will affect chain alignment it will be on the inside face of the hub flange. I just thought if the ring was "tacked to the flange it would stop the elongation of the bolt holes (the ring is about 5mm thick...just over 3/16 in old money).

[IanCordes]

My bad! I thought the photo was showing it on the sprocket side. Should've gone to Specsavers!

[Rusty546]

Yes, sorry, the photos are not that clear on just how it all goes together. It's all a little awkward really, not sure if I should "loctite" the screws into the plate or just leave them screwed tight. I don't want them moving when I change the sprocket at any time! I do think the plate, adding thickness to the flange should help it strengthen the flange and help keep it flat against the sprocket.
I do not know if the elongation of the holes is common on these or if mine has just been abused!!

[John Pattinson]

I can't see how you will get the correct alignment radially unless you have another hub to check. You need the ring to be in the proper place on the hub as spokes will not be laced correctly. Or am I complicating things?

[IanCordes]

I had one on which the holes were elongated. I had them welded up and re-drilled

[Rusty546]

Hi John
No, I think your right. I have measured the holes and radially they have worn quite a bit but laterally very little, if as I believe they were to take 5/16 bolts.
My calculations lead me to believe that there were 5 holes 5/16 dia on a 2 1/2" PCD.
If anybody can confirm this that would be great?
Also I have made the bore in the centre of the plate a slide fit over the smaller diameter of the hub so that the ring will be concentric.
The ring in the photo was just a quick one to prove the point. The "real" one may have proper "shouldered" bolts if they are about?