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**Colin Sparrow** · 16/01/2015, 08:08 AM

Originally posted by tammyanddaveky View Post

Hi all

So I had a bike with an electronic ignition, not sure if it was when I tried hooking up a kill switch on it and killed the spark off an on or what, but I wasn't impressed when it consistently seemed to cause the good ole stuck WOT that lead to diesel running...so canned it and went back to points, this is on Tessa the Trails. Dave made a flange and we got rid of the Villers S25, been rebuilt too many times and the body was beginning to tweak. Got a new and converted to 2 stroke Amal concentric on her and I decided to add a British 6 volt coil, of which I scored a handful at the swap meet, ENCO I think it is. I must say, quite the difference, excellent. I didn't get a manual choke though so its a pain, gotta turn up the idle until it warms up...but darn 2 kick start, much better manners all around!
So, decided what the heck, added same to my Wessex and same fantastic result, though I am now tracking a fading compression problem down, but WOW the start and running difference...AMAZING!!

Anyone else with input on this matter?

Surely all you need to do to fit a cut out on an electronic ignition is to fit a switchable earth to the coil?

Do you think the starting improvement is down to the Concentric or to the ENCO coil?

**johnrunnacles** · 16/01/2015, 09:54 AM

Call me "old-fashioned", Tammy, but I prefer points to electronic ............. you can see better what's goin' on ............. or isn't goin' on?
And a well-set-up Concentric carb will score over the Villiers, too (in my opinion).

**johnrunnacles** · 16/01/2015, 05:11 PM

Did you manage to sort a kill button with the points system, by the way?

**tammyanddaveky** · 16/01/2015, 06:33 PM

Collin....with the NameTab electronic ignition you have to use a 2 wire kill switch, must close the open connection if that makes any sense. They recommended a certain Yamaha brand. I tried a Honda one, worked great visually several times over, then when I put case all back together and attempted to kick start, pulled plug and spark was gone

.
So, went right back to points, which required a new mounting plate as the original one had to be altered in a way you could not mount points and condenser in order to allow the mounting of the electronic ignition.. (my poor Ranger becomes ever more of a project since she has also become the parts donor

).....got that all situated with addition of the HTC and ran her with the Villiers S25 for another many more months and never once got stuck WOT diesel running again. BUT too off and on in running performance so then went with the converted Amal

Nametab very prominent here and very high quality.
I swear she runs 100 times better on the old points and condenser, even sounds beefier.

Not sure why no one has done any S25 Replicas really. I have several that have been rebuilt so many times that the bodies themselves are tweaking and new slides just wont work.

Plan on fabricating the same flange Dave did for the Trails on the Wessex's. My Grizzy or American Spec's S25 still in pretty good running order, but still has her quirks. Will save the S25's for shows

In a nutshell it was probably a bit of both

John, kill switch easy on the points, just ground them out

I absolutely agree with you about the points, plus the electronic ignitions require higher reading volt meters etc or removing and shipping off to be diagnosed and mended, in my or our scope of "expertise" if you can even call it that lol!

**Colin Sparrow** · 17/01/2015, 08:04 AM

Oh I see. My experience of cut outs on electronic systems is confined to Motoplats and PVLs on the racers.

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