Miller Switch for 25DD wanted

[John Wakefield]

I have recently had an email from a Jim Pike looking for a Miller headlamp switch for a 25DD. I have explained to him about the replica's that are being sold that are not suitable for the Greeves application & good originals are like 'hens teeth'. So if anyone has one lying around that they would sell, please contact Jim on jpike1@btinternet.com

Here is a photo of an original showing pin locations

[Guest]

I have recently had an email from a Jim Pike looking for a Miller headlamp switch for a 25DD. I have explained to him about the replica's that are being sold that are not suitable for the Greeves application & good originals are like 'hens teeth'. So if anyone has one lying around that they would sell, please contact Jim on jpike1@btinternet.com

Here is a photo of an original showing pin locations

These Miller switches are and always were a bit of a nightmare. They are also used on Velocatte bikes. All the original ones I used to have had even more than those shown on the picture, and in different locations. It was a complicated way of using just the one switch to not only turn on the lights but to regulate the amount of charge according to which lights were on.

I'm not sure whether this charge variation is really necessary. It all depends on if you intend to ride for an hour or so at night with the headlights on. I would say that most of us don't ride at night so the variable charge rate is unnecessary. Assuming that your battery is in good nick then just one lighting coil connected permanently is ok. There is some debate over this, and I expect others will have their opinions.
I rode a Greeves with a non standard switch and one coil permanently connected for some time with no apparent problems. I think the connection to avoid is having both lighting coils permanently connected. That will almost certainly boil your battery dry in a couple of hours riding.

So ... if you never ride at night, and your journeys are are less than an hour, Just connect one lighting coil. If anyone has an early 1985 LL then I covered the switch wiring and operation.

There is Greeves wiring diagram. Maybe someone can copy one.

Keith

[John Wakefield]

In theory the battery may last an hour but in practice not, especially if its not new, & the stop light is working.
The better bet if you cant get a correct switch is to fit an separate switch to connect in the extra lighting coil to the rectifier. After all thats only what the correct Miller switch does. Or alternatively fit a Paul Goff (or similar) voltage regulator whereby all lighting coils remain in circuit.
Another point on safety is that you, in this day & age, need to ride with the headlight on in daylight.

Switch diagram, there is a wiring diagram in the handbook I posted recently @ http://www.greeves-riders.org.uk/for...0276#post20276

[Stuart Baskill]

In theory the battery may last an hour but in practice not, especially if its not new, & the stop light is working.
The better bet if you cant get a correct switch is to fit an separate switch to connect in the extra lighting coil to the rectifier. After all thats only what the correct Miller switch does. Or alternatively fit a Paul Goff (or similar) voltage regulator whereby all lighting coils remain in circuit.
Another point on safety is that you, in this day & age, need to ride with the headlight on in daylight.

Switch diagram, there is a wiring diagram in the handbook I posted recently @ http://www.greeves-riders.org.uk/for...0276#post20276

I cant load that handbook of yours for some reason.Back in the 1960,s I had a similar problem with my Triumph T100A.It used a two tier combined ignition switch/lighting switch.I replaced it with a 3 channel 2 way household switch and used a toggle switch to boost the charge for headlights on.Much cheaper

[John Wakefield]

Handbook should down load its a pdf & takes up to 3 mins depending on how quick your internet connection is.
As for switch yes I did similar thing on a 350 Triumph special using a Bulgin DPDT switch http://uk.farnell.com/bulgin/sx0783-...dpdt/dp/422010

Here is diagram for 25DC/DD with Miller switch. Its for a 4T but basically same for 2T

[John Wakefield]

Alternative to Miller lighting switch

The Lucas 41SA lighting switch http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/ws-ww10120/ would probably do the job on a Greeves as it has the toggle switch to switch in the extra lighting coil. You would have to make up an adapter to fit it into the Greeves headlight/toolbox aperture & also work out the wiring. Its not that expensive at £15.90

Also the Lucas U39 may also do the job & its more like the Miller in appearance
http://www.classicmotorcyclespares.c....html#Switches a bit more expensive at £17.99 but still a lot cheaper than the replica Miller switches being sold by Villiers Services @ £32 that don't work on the Greeves electrics

Here is a wiring diagram for the Lucas 31491 which is similar to the 41A & U39 switches