9E Crankcase oil seals

[ronwright26]

Busy recommissioning a Greeves Scottish which I have just acquired. The bike has not been used in a while and the engine is an unknown quantity. I have tried to start the bike but only on a couple of occasions has it fired , ran at high revs but failed to respond to the throttle and died. I am now working through the easiest options first
Points checked and look fine - gap is 20thou. We advanced the timing a tad and she started to kick back so she is back to the original position which someone has previously marked with a pencil.
Bike has plenty of compression and easily locks up the back wheel when bumped.
Crankcase has been vented
Carb looks clean and is currently being ultasounded
Coil and condenser are under the tank and look new. Should the condenser body be earthed as it is currently just taped onto the top tube ?
New plug and new HT lead obtained and about to be fitted. Spark was initially weak but we did get an improvement by resetting the gap.
Should the rotar be re magnitised ?
Tank to be filled with fresh petrol
If all the above is done and it still fails to start I am thinking it must be the crankcase oil seals. This is my query. How easy or difficult is it to replace them. A pair seems to be under £10 but I am not sure of my competency and I do not have any easily understood workshop instructions. I would assess my mechanical skills as adequate for engine maintenance be it car or bike including changing brake competents. I have no problem in cosmetic refurbishment including full stripdowns and rebuilding but not major engine work [I can decoke and replace rings, clutch plates etc]
Any suggestions would be welcomed

[John Wakefield]

9E

The 9E engine is about as simple as they come & an ideal one to learn on. Buy a workshop manual (available from http://www.british-motorcycle-parts....rs_Manuals.htm ) & have a go.

[ADickerson]

Hi Ronwright, just a couple of things worth trying while it's in one piece. I believe the points should be set at .012"/015" rather than .020". Secondly, if its a standard Villiers ignition system, it's worth reducing the plug gap to around .018". Mine goes great at these settings, but won't run with a .025" plug gap! Good luck, let us know how you get on, once it's all sorted. Have to agree, changing the seals won't do any harm at all either.

[John Wakefield]

Hi Ron,

Replacing the seals is not that difficult. BUT, do yourself a favour and get hold of the proper villiers-specific engine dissasembly tools that you'll need before going any further - a few pounds spent on these make the process of dismantling much easier (or even possible). Villiers services and Nametab will probably be able to supply what you need.

You dont really need any special tools to take a 9E or 32A apart, maybe a clutch locking tool these can be made by welding 2 clutch plates together, & a hammer tight spanner for flywheel but an old ring spanner that you dont mind butchering will do just as well. Both tools are relatvely cheap anyway.

[ADickerson]

I'm with Marcelle on this one, as I've found the various tools that are available invaluable over the many years of tinkering. The aluminium locking plate that fits between the sprockets and the tool for tightening the clutch cap being particularly so.
Having witnessed a main gearbox shaft fracture when the inner clutch nut was being tightened, I tend to be a little wary of hammertite spanners.
I've also seen many primary chain cases bear the scars of previous shattering due to the nut which retains the drive sprocket in place work loose and come adrift. It doesn't matter how tight you seem to do it up it always manages to loosen, so I do apply threadlock to this and the inner clutch nut also. I've not experienced the outer cap work loose at any time so don't apply any here.
Good luck Ron, I'm sure you'll cope admirably.

Hope it helps and we haven't bombarded you with too much info.