I was just wondering if the Griffon clutch typically needs Popeye sized forearms to be able to pull the lever in? Mine is a very heavy pull.
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Heavy Clutch Pull on 250 Griffon
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Hi,
Kim275 has a great way of fixing the problem. It works as I felt his clutch at Maylandsea race this year and it was just as light as mine after I spent a lot of money installing a NEB clutch which is the other way to fix the problem.
Also, if Mr Nunn sets your gearbox up you only need the clutch for the start as you can change gears without it.
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Originally posted by griffon380 View PostHi,
Kim275 has a great way of fixing the problem. It works as I felt his clutch at Maylandsea race this year and it was just as light as mine after I spent a lot of money installing a NEB clutch which is the other way to fix the problem.
Also, if Mr Nunn sets your gearbox up you only need the clutch for the start as you can change gears without it.
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Hi,
The trick is to adjust the clutch so that the arm on the gear box is at its outer limit. Then do the usual things like oil and route the cable properly. I have found that using modern levers on the bars helps if you pick ones with a better lever arm effect. I started with the steel replica levers but quickly changed.
Craig
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Ground control to Major Thommo....
Originally posted by Andy Z View PostGet a teflon lined cable, and some of these:
bRiAn.
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Clutch Lightener Mod.
Hi Johnu,
Silly banter aside, I've been having a nose about and here's one thread with some relevant info that may be of use.
Greeves trials models, e.g. Scottish, Scottish Twin, Anglian, Pathfinder, Wessex, Scottish Special, ISDT machines.
I'll have another look and see what else I can find on here for you.
Brian.
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Originally posted by Brian Thompson View Post
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