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36MX4 engine questions.

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  • #16
    Geoff - sorry to jump in - I'll get your status upgraded to 'GRA Member' - that might help.

    Colin - Thanks for the MX4 info! I think the strip down might be a good idea as I seem to have fallen at the first fench!

    The word Ah! seems to spring to mind!

    Check position of cam barrel operator assembly on inner cover. If necessary line up previously made mark for first gear

    Why do you only find these things out when you've taken it apart!

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    • #17
      Geoff - HTML in posts is disabled as a security measure. You can still post links and images though using the features in the text editor when you write a post. You should now find though that with your GRA Member status you can upload attachments. If you have any problems with this then please send me a private message and I'll help.

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      • #18
        Status

        Thanks Guys I was having a frustrating time trying to find things, The FAQ makes it all sound so easy!! but when you cannot find the button where the FAQ tells you where it is it becomes very frustrating. Colin if you can send me that strip down info for the M4 gear box it would be much appreciated, will it be buy e-mail ? I tried to re register but it says I'm already resisted so another dead end. Since upgrading me only one thing was added to my CP and that was the attachment icon as you will see I have attached some photos but I still haven't found the album and pictures button in my CP yet.
        Last edited by geoff lemar; 08/04/2010, 12:37 AM. Reason: left somthing out

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Rob View Post
          I think the strip down might be a good idea as I seem to have fallen at the first fench!
          Hi Rob, what's a "fench?"

          Anyway, for you and for Geoff, here's the stripdown guide:

          Four Speed "Round End" Albion Cam Barrel Gearbox - Dismantling

          Remove outer primary chaincase
          Remove clutch, engine sprocket and primary chain
          Remove inner chaincase
          Turn back lock washer and loosen rear drive sprocket nut
          Remove rear drive chain
          Drain gearbox oil
          Select first gear
          Remove kick-start and foot change levers
          Remove cover to clutch adjuster
          Disconnect clutch cable (push rearwards to clear fork)
          Remove five cover screws and take off outer cover
          Remove kick-start return spring
          Push out clutch pushrod from footchange side (three pieces)
          Note position of cam barrel operator assembly. There are indentations on the base
          which correspond to the positions of the grooves in the indent shaft which locate with
          the selector plunger. Mark the position of the lowest of these (which corresponds to
          the groove for first gear) on the inner casing.
          Remove domed screw from control lever shaft
          Lift picker arm from operator assembly and remove shaft
          Remove return spring
          Remove control lever pivot (makes it easier to get one of the cover bolts)
          Remove two bolts to cover plate over mainshaft bearing
          Remove cover plate (note: it is spigoted into the cover about half an inch)
          Turn back lock washer tabs on oil thrower nut
          Remove nut (note: left hand thread)
          Remove lock washer and oil thrower
          Remove six inner cover bolts
          Remove inner cover (kick start shaft will probably come with it - no problem, it just
          pulls out of the cover)
          This will leave the gearbox internals accessible but in place
          Remove first layshaft pinion
          Remove mainshaft complete with two pinions
          Take out next two pinions complete with selector forks
          Lift out layshaft, with two pinions attached.
          Lift out cam barrel
          Tap out mainshaft pinion following removal of final drive sprocket
          Colin Sparrow

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          • #20
            Fench ?

            Rob a fench is an abbreviation of a friends bench isn't it ??? some people just cant get a grip on today's English Thanks Colin for the gear box info.
            Last edited by geoff lemar; 08/04/2010, 11:34 PM. Reason: left a letter out

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            • #21
              Geoff - should have been fence (and h isn't anywhere near e on the khyboard - oops!). Can't speel or put 360 gharboxes together!

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              • #22
                found a book

                Hi Rob, I found this book at a swap meet on the week end not sure if it is the real thing or a copy the cover looks the real deal but the content is in typed blue ink the photo's are not very good but have a look and if it is the real thing I'm happy to pass it on to 24mx owner if they want it .
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  Geoff,
                  I'm afraid this is the real thing. Greeves use to issue parts books and service notes. I think this is the service notes.

                  Druid

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                  • #24
                    As John states , it is the real thing , lots of the early ones looked like this .

                    Chris

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                    • #25
                      Respect!

                      Well Guys, firstly, apologies for the late post but I've only just caught up with this thread and I have to say how impressed I am with, not only the support offered, but also the knowledge freely passed on too. I have to confess that I've never stripped an MX4 gearbox but having seen the complexity of the exploded diagram of one I've absolutely no intention of ever owning or taking one to pieces. I offer my sincere respect to those who have and whats more seem to have mastered the contraptions as well. I've struggeld over the years to re-assemble a simple Villiers box at times, thankfully, if treated with respect, they do seem to work consistently well for long periods. In recent times I've also become distantly acquainted with Griffon boxes experiencing similar levels of frustration until aspiring to the dizzy levels of expertise known as mediocrity! My 380 still jumps out of first if engaged, although that is more down to my reluctance to taking the engine from the frame and sorting rather than from lack of knowledge subsequently gained. Thanks to Geoff Nunn for lots of advice on potential problems with these, apart from that when do you use First on a 380 anyway!
                      It's reassuring to learn that no matter what the complexity or distance apart we all are help is on hand and freely given to those in need. What greater justification for the setting up of the Forum could exist. Well done Ian and Rob, "This is one giant step for" Greeves owners.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by riflegreen View Post
                        Brian ,

                        No head gasket , sounds like the ignition is slightly advanced .

                        There is a measurement for setting the piston height in the barrel to get correct compression by adding base gaskets , usually two gaskets sufficed .

                        Could be comression is slightly high and may need a third base gasket .

                        What the piston height measurement is , after 40 odd years , I have forgotten .

                        Chris
                        is the tufnol spacer there between the barrel and crank cases ? and gaskets ?

                        points set at 16 thou 3.1/2 mm BTDC i use a cuircit tester across the points placing it on buzz setting and a metric DTI down the plug hole

                        like rob sid you might have detonation ?

                        i am going to have a go at rewinding a steffa low tention coil (400 winds)
                        SWG 22 POLYESTER COATED WIRE


                        regards greeves 246

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