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  • Ranger 1

    Just started taking bits off this Ranger so I don't get held up waiting for bits.

    I have taken the shrouds off the front shocks (Girling) to get them re chromed as nobody seems to do them 3 1/2 inches long, mostly 4 inches. The problem I have is that front shocks are 13.9 and most reproduction ones are 13.4. The body of the shock if you stand it on a table and measure to the top of the cylinder is 8 1/2 inches, significantly more than the rear. Has anyone got a 13.4 shock that they can measure to check the body length? The spring is 10 inches long.

    How much difference would it make if I used a 13.4 instead (using the 10 inch springs)?

    Not sure if I understand what I have typed, but hopefully it makes sense

  • #2
    Greeves weak spot

    A split in the down tube, virtually in the same place as the American Anglian had.
    The tool box bracket had been bent round and brazed to help strengthen the crack.

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    • #3
      Tony

      Have you considered sleeving the affected section internally?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Phil Hyde View Post
        Tony

        Have you considered sleeving the affected section internally?
        Yes phil, i used an internal sleeve, then but jointed a new piece of tube section over the top on Tony`s american anglian, plenty strong enough, but those frames do seem weak in that area, they seem to flex, just above the rear cradle mount, also the stress of the rear swing arm, trying to twist it, does not help......
        Last edited by dave higgins; 13/10/2016, 07:38 PM.

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        • #5
          Weak point

          Good point Dave. The Greeves factory were a bit economic with weld holding the swing arm tube. I suspect the quantity of brass varied quite a bit. Likewise, some bronze welded joint can be weak despite looking spot on.

          On my TFS I have always been concerned with internal rusting to the main tube. I am reminded of some Husqvarna frames that snapped due to internal corrosion.

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          • #6
            Frame design

            Swinging arm is now off, lots of WD40 and a little heat and it tapped out. When I was doing up the Orange Ranger
            I thought the rear right shock absorber top cover was missing, however this one is the same.
            The reason it is on the inside is due to the exhaust which would not fit if it was on the outside hence it is on the inside.
            I never realised that as the Orange one had a different silencer, so I assumed it had been damaged and changed.
            What has been changed is the 2 triangular braces in front of both rear shocks. Although these must have been after
            production they are the same colour as the rest of the frame, someone must have done a good match.
            I can certainly see the reason for it as I have looked carefully at a few frames that seem to have bent just there.
            Not helped of course by the very small tube







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            • #7
              Back from the menders

              I picked up the cracked frame from Dave who as usual has done a brilliant job. Down tube is sleeved,
              the 2 welded on angle pieces removed and a tube on the left hand-side replaced.



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              • #8
                Looks good Tony,
                Dave's work spot on as always

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                • #9
                  Frame now together thanks to Gary who did all the tricky bits for me, having only got back to the UK at 3.00 in the morning.
                  Hopefully I can carry on and complete the rest without too much support.

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                  • #10
                    USA conformity sticker now in place (thanks Gary), seems to be on the late USA models.







                    which means it must have a working parking light, hence the switch on the rear alloy number plate holder.

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                    • #11
                      Shocks have now got their re-chromed shrouds (Chromefix), springs have been powder coated and new bushes pushed in.
                      These are the correct Girlings for the bike, difficult for the front as the reproduction ones are not long enough for the banana forks which require 13.9 shocks.

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                      • #12
                        Rear wheel is now in, nice shiny sprocket made by Parkwood products - sent by Gary for plating - he sends a bucket load every so often

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                        • #13
                          Looking good Tony

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                          • #14
                            Just put the tool box on and air filter. Bit of an error with the tool box, I had a spare one which I was going to use only to find the hole don't line up. The Ranger tool box holes are much further over than the normal hole position which I did not realise. I sent another one suitable drilled to Suffolk stove enamelers and thankfully there is no difference in the colour - not like the normal Moorland blue saga.

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                            • #15
                              Having fun sorting out the speedometer, I thought the nuts for the studs were 5mm, apparently they are for some speedometers however the one that I have has slightly small dimension studs. Anyway I found a couple of nuts and job done. The trip is one of the push in versions which is for a bike with a nacelle, very long so needed cutting down. The end part has a spigot, so with a bit of heat I managed to pulled of the plastic tube. A quick drill to widen the hole before gluing the end on the shorter length.

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