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  • Electrex ignition

    Hi,
    have just started to re commission my Greeves challenger MX4, having had Nametab engineering complete a rebuild a few years before, with an electrex ignition system fitted, the problem is that the motor kicks back that violently I am afraid it may shear the flywheel keyway. Would the answer be to retard the ignition? I have emailed Simon, with no response.

  • #2
    Check the cdi connections are correct. On my Scottish they go the opposite way to the wiring diagram. Ring Villiers Services to ask which way they should be.
    Ian Wilkinson '61 Scottish 24TD118

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    • #3
      Hi,
      thanks for the response, the engine will run well , once you have run the gauntlet, and possible broken ankle I have asked Villiers, they have directed me to Simon, but he has failed to respond?

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      • #4
        My 250 roadster does the same if I am not careful, and that is with standard Villiers ignition! I thought it had broken my shin once. Trouble is they are being kicked overfully advanced, and mine has stacks of compression, as yours no doubt has. Bosch brought out a flywheel magneto system back in the day which incorporated an auto A/R unit; neat. I think DMW used them. That doesn't help you much I know!


        Ian C.

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        • #5
          I fitted Eletrex world ignition to both my 250 and 360 Challengers as per the instructions and have had no problems kick starting. The 360 was extremely dangerous with the Steffa and my ankle and leg were always very bruised and painful but with the Elextric World the bikes go very well when now ridden by my son. Just follow the factory instructions or ring then for a copy of said instructions.

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          • #6
            I suppose the problem I have, is that I would expect the system to be fitted correctly by nametab in the first place I am loath to alter anything without talking to Simon just to ask how he set the system up, then take it from there.

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            • #7
              Try a phone call to Simon, Peter. He's usually good at picking up.

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              • #8
                Hi all,
                thanks for info, have made a stafa flywheel puller, and intend advancing the ignition, but how do you tell when she sparks? with points its easy, but am not familiar with the new electronic ignition systems. Also I have fitted a griffin clutch, but although i adjust the thing right up, it still will not clear have got the chain case off, but cannot see any spring adjustment as with standard clutch any thoughts?
                thanks all

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                • #9
                  Hi Peter, what do you mean when you say that the clutch will not clear? Do you mean it will not release or do you mean it's fouling the chaincase? There is no spring adjustment on the Griffon clutch btw. Did you fit a new clutch push-rod with the clutch?

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                  • #10
                    I have in the past, removed the plus and turned the engine over with a drill. then using a strobe gun have timed the ignition without using the marks which I was unsure of.

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                    • #11
                      Hi all,
                      the clutch will not clear no I did not fit a new clutch pushrod, are the griffon ones longer? if so where would I get one? also where do you connect the strobe gun to?
                      Pete

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                      • #12
                        I have strobed my 6day bike same way as team ferret, but do you have a strobe and a drill which will spin the engine? Helps if you say where you are, someone may well help....... Peter.

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                        • #13
                          If you undo the three screws retaining the clutch pressure plate and remove it you should be able to see the pushrod mushroom. This should move outwards when you pull the clutch lever in, probably up to about 1/4 inch. If the mushroom doesn't move then you either have the wrong pushrod or there is something wrong with the mechanism. When I changed from an Albion clutch to a Griffon I seem to remember changing the pushrod from a single piece
                          to two pieces separated by a roller. However, that was in the 1970s and it was with a 5 speed cam-barrel box, yours is almost certainly different, but the principle remains the same. If you need to make another pushrod it is quite simple to do using silver steel rod and tempering the ends.

                          Another thought.......how long has the clutch been left unused? Could it be that the plates are stuck and not disengaging?

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                          • #14
                            Hi all,
                            thanks for replying, the clutch hasn't been in operation for 2 years, but the plates appear to separate ok, I never renewed the pushrod, but will check that next, as for the ignition, I live in Scarborough North Yorkshire Tel/ 01723363813 in case there is anyone close who could assist.

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