Griffon QUB rebuild

[griffon380]

On to the gearbox that was put together but did not work.
I have discovered the use of red arrows so obviously all my photographs will feature them in the future.
The red arrow points out the obvious mistake of not putting the selector paw on the right side of the spring. Therefore the selector paws pushed the plate one way but not the other.
Silly mistake, obviously using the wrong single malt that night.

[griffon380]

Here is the paw on the right side of the spring. Obvious really, second time around.

The second arrow points to the lever arm (thats what I call it anyway) that controls the sliding plate into the set positions which are 1st 2nd 3rd and fourth.
I found too much float in it and it was riding up over the plate. Tried fancy washers and shims but in the end a "visit" to the vice sorted it.

[griffon380]

Two views of the engine before it goes back into the frame. The more observant will notice the patented engine balancing support strut. Or commonly know as a piece of wood lying about the garage floor. What a stroke of luck, right shape and size, perfect.
Just waiting on TDS for the new spark making bits and it should be all good to go.

Note the precision engineering supplement on the right.

[Kim275]

The answer is D

Hopefully here is a photograph of the washer that Andrew (Andy Z) was advising me about four or five posts ago. It might have been present all along but there must have been too much accuracy enabling fluid (7 or 8 posts back) to remember putting it there.
Andrew please confirm
A. correct washer
B. Micron is a cheap vodka and not a single malt
C. Dave's plastic mudguards are heavier than alloys therefore make his bike slow.

Craig first of all sterling work and good to know that Micron also flog Vodka (greedy buggers).......it looks like correct spacer but wrong way round... But difficult to tell from that angle....the flat side should be at back against the ridge in the shaft... And the stepped side should face forward to fit snugly into the clutch bearing. I can email you the clutch drawing if u haven't got it .can't remember thread on the 3 screws u butchered. But I do know Simon Bateman has them cos I have butchered a few myself,,!!
Cheers Kim

[Colin Sparrow]

Craig first of all sterling work and good to know that Micron also flog Vodka (greedy buggers).......it looks like correct spacer but wrong way round... But difficult to tell from that angle....the flat side should be at back against the ridge in the shaft... And the stepped side should face forward to fit snugly into the clutch bearing. I can email you the clutch drawing if u haven't got it .can't remember thread on the 3 screws u butchered. But I do know Simon Bateman has them cos I have butchered a few myself,,!!
Cheers Kim

Simon will be at Kidlington on Sunday.

[griffon380]

Thanks for the clutch washer advice Kim, I have the drawing posted by Brian (the expert poster of helpful technical stuff) but did not think to look at it. I even have it printed A1 size on the garage wall.

Colin, good to see you are looking in on the thread and hope that I am keeping within the forum rules and guide lines.

Simon, if your out there, 3 set screws in an envelope please. Sorry I won't make Kidlington, business must come first and ships don't stand still.

[griffon380]

Back again

These lovely bits arrived from TDS today.
Thanks to Kim and Dave for suggesting this hopefully the QUB will get a run round the block shortly.
The instructions say to use the woodruff key but there is no slot on the inside of the rotor? Any advice welcome.
PS, sorry to hear the thieves are at it again and three Greeves where stolen from Gary. Hopefully they will turn up soon.

[druid]

Rotor keyway

I've fitted a few of these without using a keyway in the rotor. Unlike the Motoplat it has a relatively low mass internal rotor. Providing the tapers are a good match and it's done up tight you shouldn't have a problem. As a safeguard mark the shaft and rotor with a felt pen or paint so that you can see at a glance if it has moved.

Druid

[griffon380]

Thanks Druid, sound advice and always appreciated.

Craig

[Andy Z]

I've fitted a few of these without using a keyway in the rotor. Unlike the Motoplat it has a relatively low mass internal rotor. Providing the tapers are a good match and it's done up tight you shouldn't have a problem. As a safeguard mark the shaft and rotor with a felt pen or paint so that you can see at a glance if it has moved.

Druid

Mine has never had a key on the taper and has never moved. Dave Godley must have raced it like that for many, many years before I got the bike.

Ossas have a non-keyed taper on their engine sprocket. If the taper is correct then they will never spin, but removing them can be a bit tricky!

[dave higgins]

Craig... lap it on with fine grinding paste untill there is a good foot print, it won`t move, the taper holds it secure, the keyway is only for alignment purposes, glad to see you managed to find your way back onto the forum....
If you get lost that easy...what are you gonna be like on the track.....

[griffon380]

Dave, I have more rope burns using the sides of the track than you could imagine. Getting lost is my special skill.
Have been away on business but back trying to get these two bloody sisters on the track. Looking forward to getting muck in my face. It's been a while.
Craig.

[griffon380]

Andy, Dave, and Druid.
I have fitted backplate with cable access at four o'clock not as instructions.
How do I line up the rotor without a woodruff key and then time the engine properly. There is a mark on the rotor so obviously need to line this up with something. I have a dial guage and can do the TDC thing etc but need
a base line.
Help !!!!!!

[Kim275]

Craig - Simples...........on the stator you have two arrows........the one you want is the clockwise pointing one.......To the right of that arrow you will see a small circle moulded in the black plastic... that is your firing point .........simply set your Piston to desired advance - say 3.5mm BTDC...rotate your rotor till the mark on the rotor lines up with the one on the stator - and tighten the bolt...Recheck after tightening that you are still aligning at desired advance and ...Hey presto lovely spark easy starting and happy days !!

(you can go for anything between 3mm and 4mm advance - 4mm being sharper..3mm being softer)

Let me know if you need further help and i will take a picture of mine and post it
Cheers Kim

[griffon380]

Thanks Kim,
I will give it a go tonight. The forum brilliant for helping people like me that think they know but don't really.