Scottish Project

[Steve Webb]

Hi,
I have just started renovating my bike and with limited experience at this i thought i would start with the forks, how hard can it be !!.
Problem No. 1.
After taking the ball bearings out from the headstock i counted 33 in total, at first i thought i had dropped one, but turns out there are 17 from the bottom which fit perfectly and 16 from the top which leave a bit of a gap, but 17 does not fit (see photos). I went to Essex Bearings in Heybridge and the guy, very helpful, told me they were 1/4 inch or 6.35mm. He tried 6mm. with 17 and still they would not fit, any lower he said and they would not bear at all. So my question is, is it ok with 16 as it seems alright or is something wrong.
Problem No. 2.
Moorland Blue. I went to Maldon Shotblasting and if i want it sprayed, no problem as i have already ordered an aerosol from RS Paints but if i want it powder coated it's best to supply a RAL number, what could be easier, RAL number please.
PS. I was at Telford and thought the GRA was the best stand and the most friendly as well.

[Phil Hyde]

RAL Number for Moorland Blue

Hi Steve

You might like to look at the following RAL Numbers. These are close to Moorland Blue.

5010
5013
5020

Hope this helps

Phil

[Steve Webb]

Hi Phil,
Thanks for the advise, 5010 gentian blue looks pretty close.
Steve.

[whitehillbillies]

My Greeves was painted black when I got it, but inside the brake hub, was the original blue, which from a flake of paint, the local paint shop was able to match.

whitehillbillies

[Colin Sparrow]

John Fryatt has worked with a powder coater to produce a shade which they've called "Greeves Blue". John's an ace restorer and the colour is spot on.

I'll ring him for details later and come back.

[Steve Webb]

Hi,
Thanks for your help.


Below is the reply and probably the definitive answer from the paint suppliers, so i guess i will be buying a pot of black at some point.

"I’m afraid there is no RAL number….all our colours are very precise formulations matched to original unfaded panels. RAL simply do not have the preciseness of colour range. If customers want a perfect colour match, they usually paint the frames too."

[johnrunnacles]

You probably need Chris Ginn of Suffolk Stove Enamellers. His powder coat is "spot on".

[John Pattinson]

Scottish Project

Getting back to the head race problems, maybe one set of races are after market or pattern parts and that's why they differ. Most bikes of any make have a gap that is too small to add another ball, that's the way head races are! John P.

[Colin Sparrow]

You probably need Chris Ginn of Suffolk Stove Enamellers. His powder coat is "spot on".

Just confirmed with John Fryatt, Chris Ginn is the chap he uses. He and Chris got their heads together a while back and matched the inside of a brake drum. The powder coat they came up with is known as "Greeves Blue" and it is indeed "spot on".

He's at Grundisburgh Road, Hasketon, near Woodbridge in Suffolk. I've had a word with him and he's happy for his number to go on here:

01473 735585

[Sprocket]

Ball`s

Hello, your numbers are correct, but first check to see if you have a TA or a TC, (not that it matters, just nice to know) you should have a set of cups at the top, and a set at the bottom.
Now this is when it gets a bit tricky !! The cups are "HANDED", so if you have mixed them up the larger two cups are bottoms, and the smaller two cups are are tops, so one large and one small make a pair.
On the TA you will have two matching pairs.On the TC the bottom pair
are larger as the head-stock is higher
Do a dry run, put the balls in the lower cup, there should be gaps of up to half a ball, put the top cup on and try rolling and rocking the two halves, it should not tilt. Just a nice shooth action.
If the ball`s are wornout that gap you are concerned about will get bigger,
to the point you can push an extra ball in, don`t go their, all you will do is
create a solid ring of steel, and it will lock up. Plenty of grease and let them move.
Don`t know about you but I am totally confused after that !!

[Steve Webb]

Hello, your numbers are correct, but first check to see if you have a TA or a TC, (not that it matters, just nice to know) you should have a set of cups at the top, and a set at the bottom.
Now this is when it gets a bit tricky !! The cups are "HANDED", so if you have mixed them up the larger two cups are bottoms, and the smaller two cups are are tops, so one large and one small make a pair.
On the TA you will have two matching pairs.On the TC the bottom pair
are larger as the head-stock is higher
Do a dry run, put the balls in the lower cup, there should be gaps of up to half a ball, put the top cup on and try rolling and rocking the two halves, it should not tilt. Just a nice shooth action.
If the ball`s are wornout that gap you are concerned about will get bigger,
to the point you can push an extra ball in, don`t go their, all you will do is
create a solid ring of steel, and it will lock up. Plenty of grease and let them move.
Don`t know about you but I am totally confused after that !!

Thanks Sprocket,
It's a TCS 1960 and so i'll check the bottom pair,
Steve.

[Steve Webb]

You probably need Chris Ginn of Suffolk Stove Enamellers. His powder coat is "spot on".

Hi John,
Thanks for the contact. Just collected the frame from Chris Ginn and the colour match is spot on and look's great, many thanks to Chris and Matt. The original wheels were too far gone to repair so i went for new stainless rims and spokes from Essex wheels and they also look great, thanks as well to James. Are the original Dunlop rims worth keeping ???
Now for the bad news --- i gave the engine to greg radley to have a look at, thinking it would only need a bit of a service. How wrong was i. It's amazing how skilful some people are!! He told me that for an engine that's 63 years old "it's had 1 rebore from new, probably within the first 10 years of competition use as the replacement rings were of the old thicker type and nothing much has been done since." It also had the wrong plug in it and i was lucky not to put it through the piston. Basically it's knackered and will need a few quid spent on it but it will be like new when he's finished with it. Photo of Greg's Scottish attached taken at Battlesbridge. Have a look at the exhaust he made for it.

[johnrunnacles]

Pleased that Chris and Matt came through for you, Steve. Greg certainly knows what he is talking about, so you're in good hands there, too.
Greg's bike is a Hawkstone, by the way, and is the one that Chris Huxtable campaigned for his many Hawkstone successes in the Greeves series. Greg has done a superb job in preparing it for his imminent assault on the Pre 60 Championship, intent on giving the dominating four-strokes a run for their money!
Hope to see you out on your's once its sorted.

[Donnie]

Hi Steve

You might like to look at the following RAL Numbers. These are close to Moorland Blue.

5010
5013
5020

Hope this helps

Phil

This might be useful for touch up etc

Halfords stock spray cans of Blue 5010. Enamel Spray Paint - Engine Blue RAL 5010 £7.99 for 300ml

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_724667_langId_-1_categoryId_165495

Donnie

[Steve Webb]

Almost there

Well it's been a lot longer than i thought, and more expensive, no surprise really as everyone told me that's how it goes.
It's had:
Frame shot blasted and powder coated by Chris Ginn at Suffolk Stove Enamellers
New wheels, tyres and tubes from Essex Wheels
New dampers and trikshoxs from norman blakemore at NJB shocks
Complete engine rebuild by Greg Radley and those that know have rarely heard a better one, well done Greg
New chain
New Renthall bars
New Domino control levers
New mudguards from Joel Corroy in Vesoul who signed the rear one, thats why their not painted.
Not a lot of time left to get used to it but we're off to the Arbecey trial in August so it will look good even if i am laying underneath it.
A big thankyou to everyone who helped with drawings etc. advise and skill, Thanks,