Oils for Silverstone Gearbox and Chaincase.

[rcs]

Hi Guys,
I was wondering what oil people recommend for using in the primary chaincase on for example a griffon? This is for a Silverstone (R40 in the gearbox and premix), So what would be recommended for competition use?

I was told that ATF was the stuff but it appears to have evaporated! As when I removed the cover after 2 afternoons on the airfield there’s nothing left, Its certainly lost some but there’s no way its lost it all. Perhaps ATF is too thin?

I was thinking perhaps R30 but you cant get this anymore and I expect R40 is abit too thick.

Also could someone give me a figure on just how much oil is the correct amount to put in, as there’s no level plug it seems a bit of a guess for someone like myself.

[Brian Thompson]

Chaincase oil(s)

Opinions vary on this topic rcs, but have you seen this thread and Colin's reply to GRA member Fatmen4?;

http://www.greeves-riders.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=3634

And there's more here;

http://www.greeves-riders.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=603

You can always try a 'search' (third icon from the right on the toolbar above) to see if anyone's already posted something in the area of your question.

Brian.

[rcs]

Thanks Brian, I had read the 2nd link but not seen the first one.

So no definite answer then it seems? Maybe a few more people can chip in on this one?

100ml doesn’t seem an awful lot either?

[John-Boy]

My Challenger primary chain case has a level plug but no drain plug, the outer casing has to be removed to fully drain the oil.

The Challenger service manual specifies 145cc (1/4 pint) of oil.

I use 5 or 10W Fork oil which seems to be popular with many classic scramblers and does not cause the clutch to 'drag'.

[Phil Hyde]

Transmission oils

Automatic transmission fluid everytime. It is ideally suited to both primary chaincase and gearbox applications. The only downside is keeping the stuff in the cases. You need to be really sweet with joint faces and use a good liquid gasket. Another useful tip is to install a small pot magnet inside the gear casing. You will be amazed at what it catches.

Phil

[ADickerson]

That's a good tip about a pot magnet Phil, it doesn't seem to take long on either my Villiers or Griffon clutch for the oil to become contaminated with metal particles. With regard to oil, I've been running Castrol R all round in mine since meeting up with the Invader Karting boys at Snetterton in the early nineties. Up until then I'd been using it at 25:1 for the engine and neat in the gearbox, I was a little surprised when they informed me that they used it all round. At that time they were claiming 36 bhp at about 10,500 rpm from their 210 engines and I thought if it's good enough for them then it'll do me. Certainly saves on keeping different types of oil as well as running the risk of making a mistake and using the wrong one somewhere! But I certainly respect everyones opinion with their particular choice.

[Brian Thompson]

Rrrrrr!

Thanks for chipping in Adrian-it's an interesting debate this one isn't it!

Impressive figures for that 210 kart engine though-amazing what those guys get out of those engines, as I've read about in John Wood and Rob Carrick's book 'Villiers Improvements' et al. Mind you, I wonder if all the power came in between 10,500 and 10,600 rpm...?! (only joking!)

Regarding using 'R' in Villiers and Greeves engines, what are your thoughts on road use vs race mate? Do you drain it down between meetings as well?

Brian.

[John-Boy]

Thanks Brian, I had read the 2nd link but not seen the first one.

So no definite answer then it seems? Maybe a few more people can chip in on this one?

100ml doesn’t seem an awful lot either?

I have now had a look at a Griffon manual which gives the following:

Gearbox 3/4 imp.pint of Shell Super M

Primary chain case 1/2 imp.pint (290cc) of sae 10 or 20

[john downer]

Chaincase/ clutch

With my Scotish that has a 32A there was a Frank Conley catalog. He say,s (we have found ATF works perfectly) So that is what I used it took a bit of extra care to stop it leaking out . Now after 4 years and at least 4000 miles often on green lanes and tracks. I have had the clutch out to change the final drive sprocket. I am pleased to say all the parts are in good condition I must admit to adding a splash more fluid after re fitting the level plug as the level seems hardly enough and I do not seem have any clutch slip
I hope this helps