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  • #31
    So....if claret is live, chateu lafite must be earff...

    Ha!!

    Nice one Tony! Mate, just drink some more wine and glue the wires on anywhere!!! It's bound to work...it's a Greeves!

    Hope you get it sorted bud.

    Brian.
    Last edited by Brian Thompson; 04/11/2016, 10:33 PM.

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    • #32
      It hurts when you bang your head against a brick wall

      There are not enough terminals on the switch I have, whether more could be added who knows.

      It sort of worked, but as there were not enough terminals I ended up with different permutation, none that were correct

      I could try a new replica switch or I could put a three way flick switch on the side of the head lamp and forget about the Miller switch.

      I would prefer to use a replica switch but they do not seem to come with the relevant diagram.

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      • #33
        Miller light switch

        Tony surely you only need 3 contacts. power in, power out to pilot and rear lamp, and power out to headlamp and rear lamp. Try a meter, set to resistance to suss out whats what or a battery and bulb to test for continuity....Johnp.

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        • #34
          According to diagram
          Pin 6 is input from generator via 2 pin plug (large pin)
          Pin 8 to rear light
          Pin 7 to speedo & headlamp via dip switch

          Looking at your switch the connection tag looks to have broken off pin 6 so will need a soldered connection. Presumably you are not bothering about the dry battery powered parking light.
          If your switch is a genuine Miller one it should work, but if its one of these repro ones sold for Vincents etc the pin configuration may be different. I dont think Miller used the push on type connections but were screw terminals.

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          • #35
            A bit more success

            Whilst I am held up with technical issues with the switch (haven't a clue, thanks Dave). I thought I might put an ignition switch with a key so the lights cannot be switched on accidentally and make it slightly more difficult to nick (apart from chucking it in a van)

            Since I have a few rolled up tubes and lids I thought I would use them to make a demi (no point practising French any more : ) tool box. Perhaps with a key in the middle and a small led I have for showing whether the battery is green or red which hopefully with an Led front and rear it should show green.

            It fills the space quite nicely behind the silencer and follows the circular shapes of that area, sort of Henry Moore, sexy curves and circles what do you think Brian:




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            • #36
              Led

              Looks like a factory part. I like the idea of the LED status lights.

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              • #37
                Henry Moore-Landblue....

                ...yep, I can definitely see where you got the inspiration from Tony.....!!

                Mind you....aren't you concerned about attracting all those sheep mate.....??

                But seriously (if we must!), great job Tony, looks very 'factory' to me and fits in there a treat. Functional too, and a very neat idea.

                I like it!

                Brian.
                Attached Files

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                • #38
                  Rear lamp

                  So moving on while the paint is drying on the demi tool box - the Led rear bulb has arrived.
                  To accommodate the bulb which needs to face horizontal to the lens - unlike the Wipac one which sits vertically.
                  The problem - it is too long

                  Fortunately I knew this before ordering it and have taken the Wipac apart to alter it to accommodate the bulb holder.
                  The holder needs a 17mm hole in the rear of the lamp and a tube to hold it in place. Then a rubber boot to waterproof it. Simple



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                  • #39
                    Rear Led now working, all that is left to do is connect the wires properly and shrink cover the extended bulb holder at the back.
                    The bulb holder slid perfectly into a pipe insert, cut a a third off and poked through the light fitting and the number plate.
                    With the lip on the insert it held nicely in place, and a nut bolt to keep it in the correct position. It is permanently held now with some JG Weld,I thought about brazing or soldering it in place but as there are different metals and plastic I thought better off it. Anyway if they can build bikes with composite parts glued together I am sure a rear lamp will be okay

                    The differences in brightness is phenomenal compared to the other TFS, which is what you need nowadays - to be seen and be able to see where you are going

                    Next job is to replace the front with an Led which I shall do in the next few days.

                    Led stop light and rear light photos



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                    • #40
                      Let there be light!

                      Looks really good Tony, neat job.

                      As an aside, JB Weld is an excellent epoxy in my opinion and I reckon an ideal choice for your application here. I've had really good results using it in a number of different applications as well.

                      Brian.

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                      • #41
                        Stuck with it

                        With that endorsement I had better stick with it then

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                        • #42
                          Tastes better than Pritt and is less chewy.....

                          ....just make sure you adhere to the distructions, but don't glue yourself to the packaging mate...

                          Brian.

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                          • #43
                            Talking of Henry Moore and sexy curves, forget Henry (and Roger come to that) and add in your French from earlier - demi.

                            You end up with Demi Moore!

                            Wonder how she's wired??!!

                            Sorry for that but its too wet to go out and play bikes!
                            Attached Files

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                            • #44
                              No 'Moore' wishful thinking

                              Just fitted some rubber indicators (more safety features) which work well on the rear with stainless steel 'P' clips.



                              For the front I just used a piece of flat steel bolted through the headlamp bracket and bent at 90 degrees at the ends.





                              Just waiting for a chrome horn/indicator switch to connect it all up.

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                              • #45
                                Ignition switch

                                I have now fitted the ignition switch in the Greeves demi tool box (part no 6537364A) and the led battery status light.
                                Of course it is not in a practical place and would be better on the headlamp or binnacle.
                                However it is only to check how much the battery is drained so will be okay where it is.
                                That said lots of bikes like the Sunbeam S7 had them in a similar daft position.



                                The indicators all work, as does the rear light and brake, hopefully I will get the light switch sorted in a couple of days.

                                I have run dedicated earth wires to all the indicators, rear light, actually everything that turns on
                                A lot more red wire but at least I should not have an earthing problem which happens with my Triumph T100C.

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