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Villiers 32A Clutch and Flywheel Nuts

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  • Villiers 32A Clutch and Flywheel Nuts

    Haven'y got too far dismantling the motor as I'm stuck how to proceed without wrecking parts.

    Flywheel.
    I have loosened the nut but can't work out how to first remove the points cam.
    I assume you don't just force it off with the nut. Any hints?

    Clutch
    I have the pin spanner and the comb to remove the circular cover holding the clutch plates on but when I try and turn the pin spanner the clutch just slips.
    Is it a LH thread (clockwise to loosen) instead?
    Not sure what to do next. Have I missed something obvious?

    I will need to buy the Villiers book to make sure it is reassembled correctly as clearly the motor has not run since being dismantled and reassembled by previous parties.

    Regards,

    Peter

  • #2
    Clutch solved - still need advice to remove points cam

    Solved removal of the clutch.
    The problem was the centre bolt in the pin spanner I purchased. It was intended to make sure the pin spanner did not slip off but because the bolt was just too long when it was tightened it made contact with the end of the shaft and lifted pressure off the clutch plates so the inner hub spun while trying to undo the nut.

    I still need advice on removing the points cam off the end of the crankshaft. Do I use a small puller and remove the cam and key, or is it OK to push it off when undoing the flywheel nut?

    Regards,

    Peter.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by nzpeterb View Post
      I still need advice on removing the points cam off the end of the crankshaft. Do I use a small puller and remove the cam and key, or is it OK to push it off when undoing the flywheel nut?
      The usual way to remove the cam is to insert a small screwdiver into the end of the split in the cam, then give it a slight tap with hammer to open up it up slightly. It should then just pull off. Word or warning dont open it up too much otherwise the cam will break in half.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks

        John,

        Thanks, cam removed and I finally have access to the coils.
        The coils, wiring, and HT lead, are all covered in thick layers of insulation tape, RTV, and paint so there is no need for further testing as clearly they have begun to degrade in the past.
        The HT pick up fell into a pile of crumbs when I unwrapped the layers of tape.
        So looks like new coil, condenser, and pick up are needed.

        Thanks for your continued help answering my queries.
        I've attached a couple of photo of where I have got to.
        I removed 2 pounds of filler from the petrol tank this week and it is quite a mess so that will take some time, and the engine dismantle/rebuild to go.

        regards,

        Peter.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Looking good so far

          Chassis looks really good Peter. A credit to your time and effort.

          Comment


          • #6
            Peter, don't if you are considering fitting a remote coil and capacitor? If your HT pick-up has gone home and the coil is also U/S, you can always strip off the HT windings and pick up the end of the LT and extend it to an external coil mounted under the tank. As you have painted the frame, you could always make up a bracket and attach it with hose clips as a previous owner did on my TES.

            Comment


            • #7
              Phil and Rob,

              Thanks for making time to reply. All of my coils, including the lighting ones, are wrapped in tape and RTV so even they would need to be replaced.
              Given that and the modern coil materials should outlast me, my preference is to go with the original system.
              I note all the coils (lighting and ignition) are what Villiers Services call the competition type. Are these standard for a Scottish?

              Regards,

              Peter.

              Comment


              • #8
                After this length of time, bits get changed and mixed up. Back in the day, whatever came along went on! I seem to remember that sporting-type bikes had the sports coil (strangely enough!) If you look at the other thread of yours, the subject of a remote coil is covered. The cheapest option is just to remove the thin, HT windings and fit an external coil.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Rob,

                  I thought the previous suggestion was to use the lighting coils to power an external coil but now realise you are saying to use the low tension side of the ignition coil. Sorry I didn't get it the first time.

                  Regards,

                  Peter.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    on my bike, I rerouted the wires from the lt from the ignition coil, and the lighting coils so that all the wire tails are in the points cover. I have run the bike using the ignition lt and runs fine hot or cold. At present I am running it on the lighting coil opposite the ignition coil and it rus just as well. I havnt run it with both in parallel yet. having the wires in the points compartment means I can quickly change from one to the other if the need arises without removing the flywheel. its a bit crowded in the points compartment but possible. I extended the coil tails using some cable that is used to feed the electromagnetic clutch on the compressor on refrigerated vehicles. (I am a transport refrigeration engineer). this type of wire is great because its very flexible and less likely to break through vibration.

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                    • #11
                      Clutch removal on my 32A

                      I too am having problems undoing the clutch end cap and had the same problem noted above with the bolt holding the peg spanner in place. Put a couple of washers under the head and it seems fine. Put a ring spanner on the peg spanner hex head and hit it with no luck - nothing moved. Advice from the peg spanner manufacturer was to hit it harder and if that doesnt work use a windy gun to try to shift it. All very well but when I hit it harder it still didnt undo but just moved under a bit of clutch slip. Dont have a windy gun nor do I have a van or a trailer to get it to somewhere that can help. Is there any other collective wisdom out there which will avoid my having to hire a van to transport my Scottish to somewhere with a windy gun system that shock loads the end cap to try to shift it?
                      Ian Wilkinson '61 Scottish 24TD118

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Clutch peg spanner

                        Further to my previous post was supplied with a 4 peg spanner and after soaking everything in wd40/penetrating oil over the weekend it worked a treat with minimum force. Lots of rust inside the clutch and a long shopping list of bits to replace!
                        Ian Wilkinson '61 Scottish 24TD118

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