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  • TFS/ Challenger front mudguards

    Hi to all, hopping to find an easy answer? I have stripped the rear frame and the front forks and resprayed them in Greeves Moorland Blue i have got from a paint manufacturer in New Malden after being recommended by Roger Davy who was a Commerford rider years ago the colour code is Fiat for Greeves 442f blue medio 420-8547, i got it in rattle cans and looks the dogs do dahs.
    the Firm is L-E-Went 52/56 Burlington Road New Malden 0208 -949-0626 and very helpful.
    After sliding the Mudguard out which is molded around the fork legs, and secured with aluminum clips fixed with four bolts , this was very awkward to say the least! what is the best way (if there is one) to replace these without scratching the new pain on the legs?.
    I cant imagine at a scramble this is easy! see the cover picture in the latest Leading link of the guards on John Surtees bike? would heating them it hot water making them more pliable work with Glass fiber, or not. any ideas why this is so awkward Dicky

  • #2
    Take the front wheel out. One reason I've gone for alloys in my TFS.
    Colin Sparrow

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    • #3
      Thanks Colin for your reply, but this is with the front wheel out!, as i said i am respraying the bike , and also with the bolts out of the suspension ? it is just seems to wide, but when located in place with the cut outs it is ok , it had never been removed by me in the all the years i have had it? more head scratching, will get there in the end.

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      • #4
        TFS Front Mud Guard

        Dick

        As far as I know there were two different types of front guard on the TFS.

        The type you have referred to that is a tight fit between the fork legs, and a later on that was fitted to brazed on brackets. A much narrower guard.

        The original guards (both types) were made of a thin flexible plastic that could be manipulated into position. This particular type of plastic was very susceptible to attack by ultra violet light and very few survived.

        Subsequently, GRP copies were made which are stronger, but unfortunately almost impossible to bend into position.

        Perhaps Druid, or others can authenticate, or add to my tale.

        Good luck in your quest.

        Phil
        Last edited by Phil Hyde; 06/04/2017, 11:55 AM. Reason: more worms

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        • #5
          TFS Mudguard

          Hello Dicky,
          I found the only easy way was to remove the fork yoke and then spread the legs (sorry matron) a bit & then slide it up a gently

          Colin

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          • #6
            Another use for Emu Oil perhaps?

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            • #7
              front guards

              The originals were vacuum formed, very thin, very light and very flexible. they could be squeezed to get them in. After this length of time they are as malleable as egg shells.

              The grp replacements are much stiffer and can't be squeezed in to place. You'll need to remove the bottom loop and top yoke and splay the legs apart to fit them.

              Druid

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              • #8
                Vacuum formed

                John

                Was the plastic sensitive to UV?

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                • #9
                  Thank you all for your help in this matter even you Colin, i knew that it was a bit more than taking the front wheel out , and all your input confirms i have to adopt another approach before forcing them back.!!! and no comments on my rebuilding prowess please!! Captain Mainwaring cheers Dicky

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                  • #10
                    OK all now back together after painting , put low tack masking tape on front legs greased with some LM ,same to Mudguard . and a quick push and in she went , cleaned off with white spirit , and no damage !! Rob wont believe that will he !!!

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