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British Hub Company hubs

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  • British Hub Company hubs

    My TFS wheel hub brake drums are looking very scored and pitted after 50 years of genaral corrosion and trials riding. has anyone had new drum liners made and fitted? I was wondering if it would be possible to use stainless steel as an alternative to the cast iron liners fitted. I dont know how much more life I can coax out of the existing drums. Every time I clean off corrosion after a wet wheel immersing trial I am concerned about the amount of rust and scale that comes away. They are running out of metal

  • #2
    It should be possible to bore out the hub & shrink in a new liner preferably stainless steel. This method is used to reclaim brake master & slave cylinders for cars & commercial vehicles so should be ok for motorcycle hubs. A liner about 3mm thick should do the trick but one would need to be careful not to cut into the alloy casting too much as it will weaken it. You would need about 10 thou of an inch interference fit then heat up hub & freeze the liner in the ice box of a domestic fridge. It should then just drop in, then re machine it to size. Obviously you will need a lathe big enough to swing a wheel.

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    • #3
      British Hub Co. drums

      Hi Folks,

      I have recently acquired a 1962 Sportstwin but it has been fitted with a front hub off a small Honda bike. Furthermore, the brake lever and back plate is fitted on the LHS of the hub/ bike and, to accommodate this arrangement, the anchor plate is fitted in the wrong part of the lower fork extension, having apparently been drilled out specially.

      I would like to replace it with an original front paddle hub to match the paddle hub on the rear wheel. Can anyone help me with this request, please?

      Does the anchor plate on the paddle hub on the front locate in the same position as on full width hubs, as fitted to my 1963 Sportstwin, please? There is no drilling/mounting position currently on the RH side lower fork extension on this new machine.
      This is the Greeves that was recently advertised on O.B.M. in August, 2016, by the way.

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      • #4
        The tin hub brake anchor fixing is not same as alloy BH. The tin hub anchor arm bolts to moving link (as pic) the BH to the fixed angled part of the forks
        Attached Files
        Last edited by John Wakefield; 28/08/2016, 02:11 PM.

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        • #5
          Paddle hub

          When you find a paddle hub it should have the brake arm welded to the brake plate with the fixing hole in the correct position to locate where the hole to attach it to the forks should be.

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          • #6
            There should be a tubular spacer welded in the moving link which protrudes in the inside to form the location for torque arm. The bolt it appears just secures it in place. I think all the roadster forks have this, its there on my East Coaster but not used as torque arm for alloy hub is higher up on the fixed part of fork.

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            • #7
              British Hub Co. Paddle Hubs

              Hi Folks,

              Thank you to the GRA members for the helpful info. regarding the anchoring arrangements on paddle type front hubs!

              Can I ask if anyone in this country has a spare paddle type front hub for sale, please?

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              • #8
                British hub company

                hi could any member tell me where i can get a brake lever for my front hub it is a full hub on a greeves with banana forks this lever is not for the handlebars?
                thank you sinbad

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                • #9
                  Try Paul Powell at Cotton Villiers.Details in L/L.

                  Simon

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                  • #10
                    Or you could make one, its made from flat sheet steel 1/8" thick or stainless steel even better as it wont need plating.

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                    • #11
                      Not worth making one Paul sells laser cut stainless ones for £7.50.

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