Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Grumph's Progress

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Grumph's Progress

    Any thoughts on what brakes are best to fit to a grumph, bearing in mind modern road conditions. I noticed on the Greeves website that they fittted a a 9" Gremeca twin leading shoe with twin activators, it looks good and should stop the bike quickly. If I used that at the front what would best suit the rear?
    I thought about a disc, but that would mean using a more modern fork, good stopping, but not sure if it would look as good.
    Last edited by tony; 29/04/2012, 06:57 PM. Reason: title change

  • #2
    Tri-Greeves Brakes

    Stopping a Grumph. An eternal problem because there are so many variations of use as well as peoples expectations. The original tin hubs were ideal for trials and scrambles bikes. Add the extra weight of the Triumph lump and double the power even a British Hub Co alloy brakes are going to have to work overtime and be in top fettle all of the time.

    The Norton 8" is very good and you can add the 2LS from a commando for extra stopping power. The Triumph-BSA 2LS is also good. The Grimeca is a bit pricey.

    A British Hub Co 7" 2LS a la Silverstone makes a really good brake in a roadster. The only problem is finding a decent one.

    You could try Japanese. The choice is bewildering from nice 2LS to full disc.

    See attached photos. The disc set up on this bike was designed to stay fairly neutral when applied, ie, no dive. A bit of an aquired taste but quite in line with Berts philosophy in the early roadsters.

    Here to help.

    Phil
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      Hatherleigh sunday

      as far as i know its Hatherleigh auto jumble on sunday not far from both of us you might find something there

      Comment


      • #4
        Rear Alloy mudguard

        I am trying to fix a new alloy rear mudguard to my Scottish but the swinging arm frame oil tube filler gets in the way. I have seen various methods of getting around this - some leave a 3" inch gap from the mudguard to the frame - others have cut a slot out of the mudguard. My old one has a slot cut out. The new mudguard (from Villiers) although slightly narrow than the old one still catches on the filler tube. So the question is - What do most people do to get the mudguard to fit?.

        Comment


        • #5
          Starting to build the grumph

          I now have the frame to go with my T100C engine, a 1965 TFS. I have collected a few other bits and will do a dry build first to check everything fits and looks how I want it to.
          Phil Hyde is making the plates as I am sure his experience in this field is what you need to make sure the engine fits as it should.
          I have a Bantam cub, oil tank, battery box and cover and some T100C electrical parts. The rear wheel is a TFS competition hub and for the front I am looking at an Enfield alloy hub with a 7 inch Triumph 2LS brake, after all it does need to stop. As for the tank I am unsure as I want one that will give a good range, at least 4 gallons, I have travelled 300 miles without finding fuel so big is best. Any suggestions for one that would look good and can be adapted to fit would be appreciated. Next post will be around July with frame and engine together.



          Comment


          • #6
            I didn't know fuel stations were that rare in the West Country!

            Comment


            • #7
              Going to take it to India and retrace my trip on the KTM to Khardungla





              - hopefully.




              As for fuel in the westcountry - everything runs on cider

              Comment


              • #8
                Sleeving the forks for the grumph

                A couple of pictures of the sleeve I am using
                to add a little more strength to the leading link forks,
                I don't want the powerful Triumph 2LS brake bending them




                Last edited by tony; 12/05/2011, 02:35 PM. Reason: image change

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sleeving Photos

                  Tried to open your pictures to no avail. May be being in NZ is having the wrong effect!!!


                  Regards


                  Phil

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Pictures should work now

                    The pictures should show now, I did them on my Applemac which reads Tiff images where as some PC's cannot.
                    Last edited by tony; 13/05/2011, 12:46 PM. Reason: Pictures not working

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Pics now showing on my laptop.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Forks

                        Seems a good idea to beef up forks like this, its also a concern on standard Greeves which have been restored & the rusty fork legs shot blasted & pitting filled in with filler primer before painting. OK on a show bike but any serious off road (or on road) use could result in forks breaking. Not something you can easily spot before hand. Has anyone suffered from snapped forks?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Greeves L/L Forks.

                          John, I've never heard of any 'snapping' but have seen several bent out of square owing to the 'H' construction shape. The brazing technique used at Thundersley makes it relatively easy for a good Engineering firm to detatch, replicate and affix new tubes if neccesary. However, I always marvel at just how sturdy (HEAVY !) these forks are whenever I'm looking at/working on them.
                          Conversley, back in the early 70s, when we were getting BSA A.10s and the like, and fitting the TRIUMPH twin leading shoe brakes on them, you could 'bend' the standard forks by heavy braking. My Thruxton Bonneville, a 1963, Duplex Frame, 4-plug head, gas flowed, Nimonic Valved, 10 to 1 Slipper Piston, Lucas Wader K2FCR Mag, nightmare to start....! had a set of forks from an early Rocket 3 with the Twin Leader.

                          If anyone comes across 191 AWA...walk past, quickly. I attribute my Sciatica, Rupture, duff R Knee and a few grazed knuckles to that monster !

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Rusty Forks

                            Perhaps drifting a bit off subject, but the original cause of water in the legs. Rain water, too much water from power washing. None of which is ideal. A small hole strategically drilled in each leg will help as will a dose of Waxoyl.

                            Some of the early Husqvarna frames were known for rusting from the inside out. Not too clever on a motocrosser.


                            Phil

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Neat Solution for the switch and headlamp

                              I have seen many different ignition switches on Grumphs and as I am using the Smaller 5 3/4 headlamp I am going to use the T100C rubber mounted headlamp brackets. These take the Triumph ignition switch which will give a neat look.



                              I am going to use Lucas handlebar switches as I need indicators etc and they look good, slightly late at 1971, but a good compromise.



                              These ones are NOS and should look good.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X